Maha Sarsour’s Maqluba (Upside-Down Chicken and Rice)
Updated July 8, 2020

- Total Time
- 1 hour 45 minutes
- Rating
- Comments
- Read comments
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Ingredients
- 1medium eggplant (1 pound)
- Salt
- 3½pounds bone-in chicken pieces
- 1½teaspoons ground black pepper
- 1teaspoon ground cumin
- 6cloves
- 6green cardamom pods
- 3bay leaves
- 2½cups long-grain rice, rinsed well and drained
- 1small onion, cut into large wedges
- Vegetable or olive oil, as needed
- 3 to 5medium carrots, 2-or-3-inch pieces
- 1medium potato, ½-inch slices
- ½medium-head cauliflower, in florets
- ¾cup broken vermicelli noodles (see note)
- 1teaspoon ground turmeric
- ¾teaspoon ground cinnamon
- ½teaspoon ground allspice
- ¼teaspoon ground cloves
- ½teaspoon Goya Sazón seasoning (optional)
- 3garlic cloves, grated
- ⅓cup pine nuts
- Plain yogurt, for serving (optional)
- Chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley, lemon juice and olive oil, for serving (optional)
Preparation
- Step 1
Cut the eggplant into ½-inch-thick half-moons. Season well with salt, and let sit 30 minutes. Place the chicken in a large pot (a 10-inch, 5-quart size is ideal), and season well with salt and 1 teaspoon black pepper, ground cumin, cloves, cardamom pods and bay leaves (ideally, do this the day before). Pour 3 cups of boiling water over the rice. Soak for 10 minutes, then drain well.
- Step 2
To the chicken, add the onion wedges, 1 tablespoon salt and 4½ cups of water. Bring to a boil, covered, over high heat, then turn down to a simmer, and cook for 20 minutes. Drain the chicken, keeping the broth and discarding the onion and spices.
- Step 3
Heat ½ inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot, then fry the carrots, in batches if necessary, turning occasionally until browned, about 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels, then season lightly with salt. Repeat with the potato, about 3 minutes per side. Repeat with the cauliflower, about 7 minutes per batch. Finally, press the eggplant with paper towel until dry, then fry the eggplant in one layer until browned, about 4 minutes per batch. Drain on paper towels, but don’t season. (If the eggplant is too oily, press on it with paper towels.)
- Step 4
Pour out the oil, keeping 2½ tablespoons in the pan. Heat it over medium-high heat and add the vermicelli, stirring until browned, about 2 minutes. Add the drained rice and cook, stirring, to dry it out, about 4 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon salt, ½ teaspoon black pepper, the turmeric, cinnamon, allspice, ground cloves, Sazón and garlic, and cook, stirring, until very fragrant.
- Step 5
Place the chicken back in the pot, skin side down. Place the vegetables on top, then rice. Pour in 4 cups of the chicken broth. Press down on the rice; add more broth or water if needed to bring the liquid barely to the level of the rice. Cover the pot and bring to a boil over high heat, then turn it down to medium low. After 10 minutes, carefully stir just the rice to evenly combine the harder rice on top. Repeat after another 10 minutes. After a total of 30 minutes, the rice should be cooked, but not soft, and the liquid should be absorbed.
- Step 6
Place a very large serving dish on top of the pot, then, protecting your hands (and maybe with a partner), invert the pot onto the dish in one smooth motion. If there is liquid seeping out, spoon it out or soak it up with paper towels. Let the pot rest at least 5 minutes.
- Step 7
Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a small pan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Fry the pine nuts, stirring constantly, until browned, about 1 minute. Drain on paper towels.
- Step 8
Lift off the pot to reveal the maqluba, and scatter the pine nuts all over. Serve with yogurt and chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and parsley on the side, seasoned with lemon, salt and olive oil.
- The noodles are shereya in Arabic or fideos in Spanish; or, if necessary, take angel-hair pasta and break it into 1-inch pieces.
Private Notes
Comments
Wish there had been a video for this ....
there is a video, sorta, that I found helpful. you might reference Anthony Bourdain PARTS UNKNOWN Ssn 2 Episode 1: Jerusalem. the one shown is "MAQLUBA, traditional Palestinian dish comprised of layers of fried
Eggplant, Tomatoes, Potatoes, caramelized Onions and Chicken sautéed then simmered in a broth w/ nutmeg, Cinnamon Cardamom and Rice."
there's also this site with helpful photos: http://www.kitchenofpalestine.com/maqluba/
The directions in this recipe are not good. The author needs to review them. I am a very experienced cook, and I found this baffling. Luckily, Middle Eastern cooking is one of my skills, and I was able to apply my knowledge to this. But for a less experienced cook, this recipe would be baffling.
The end result was divine. I love this presentation, and will do it again.
I cross-referenced with my Jerusalem cookbook and he says never to take the lid off the rice when it’s cooking because you lose steam. But I followed this recipe and while it worked out, it took an extra 30 minutes for the rice to lose its crunch. It was fine because the chicken was falling off the bone by then but I’m glad I wasn’t in a rush. I also roasted half the vegetables to save time and oil (fried the potatoes and eggplant while the carrots & cauliflower roasted in the oven). Nice!
I dated a Jordanian when I was in grad school and he made this all the time. I’m so glad to have a recipe! Thanks.
We would like to add a colorful veggie to this. Any suggestions? I lived in Jordan for a year, and I don't recall if they added sweet red peppers to any of their foods. Cauliflower tastes great, but looks boring (visually). We'll leave it in ... but do you see my point? Or am I just being silly. Ha.
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