Lobster Mac and Cheese 

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Prepare the lobster: Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and season with a couple large pinches of salt. Lay a lobster on a cutting board, belly-side down with the head facing toward you. Using a large chef’s knife, place the tip of the knife into the cross in the middle of the head and, in one swift motion, bring the blade’s tip through the lobster and bring the knife’s heel down sharply in between the eyes. This kills the lobster instantly. Grab the tail and the head with opposite hands and twist the tail sharply. Use a kitchen towel to grip if it’s hard on your hands. Pull the head away from the tail. Grab each claw firmly and twist them off the body and discard the rubber bands. Repeat with the second lobster. (You may come across the tomalley, a green substance in the cavity of the lobster; you can simply remove and discard it.)

2. Step 2

   Place the claws and the tails in the boiling water and cook for 2 minutes. Pull the lobster from the water, discard the water, and rinse the lobster pieces in a bowl under cold water until cool enough to handle.

3. Step 3

   Using solid scissors, cut along the middle of a lobster tail on the top and bottom. Peel the shell apart to reveal the lobster meat. Remove the intestine along the top of the lobster tail and discard. Repeat with the other tail and then cut all the meat into ½-inch chunks. Transfer to a small bowl sitting in the fridge. Grab a claw piece and firmly twist the knuckle (the joint that connects the claw to the main body) off. Using scissors, make a shallow incision along opposite sides of the knuckle, pull the shell apart, and transfer the knuckle meat to the same bowl as the tail meat. Grab the smaller “thumb” piece of claw and jiggle it up and down to loosen it. Gently pull it away from the claw; a flat piece of cartilage should come out with the claw. Using the scissors, cut along the perimeter of the claw and open to reveal the claw meat. If the cartilage came out with the thumb, cut the claw into chunks and add to the rest of the lobster meat. If the cartilage didn’t come out, pry the cartilage out with your fingers; it will shred some of the meat, but that is OK. Repeat with the other claw pieces. Reserve all the shells for the next step.

4. Step 4

   Prepare the sauce: In a large pot over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons of olive oil, the lobster shells and heads, onion, fennel and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until all the shells and the heads are bright red and the aromatics are fragrant, 5 to 10 minutes.

5. Step 5

   Add the white wine and cook for 5 more minutes, until mostly evaporated. Add the milk and bay leaf, bring to a simmer, then adjust heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens slightly and has a pronounced lobster flavor, about 45 minutes. Strain the mixture through a large fine-mesh sieve, save the liquid and discard the solids. You should have at least 3½ cups of lobster milk; if it yields less, top it with whole milk until you have 3½ cups.

6. Step 6

   While the lobster shells simmer, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then cook the pasta 2 minutes less than the package instructs. Drain the pasta, toss it in 1 tablespoon of olive oil, and set aside.

7. Step 7

   Turn your broiler on low and ensure your rack is positioned in the middle of the oven. Place a large, heavy-bottomed, oven-safe pot over medium heat. Add the butter and cook until fully melted and foamy; add the flour and whisk until the flour is coated in fat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the flour no longer smells raw, 2 to 4 minutes. Gradually pour in the lobster milk while whisking to combine.

8. Step 8

   Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, whisking constantly, until the milk comes to a simmer and starts to thicken. Adjust heat to medium, and continue cooking for 7 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mixture reaches a custardy consistency. Add the cheeses, mustard powder and cayenne, and continue stirring until the cheese melts into the sauce and it is satiny smooth, about 2 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt as needed.

9. Step 9

   Add the lobster meat and pasta to the cheese sauce and stir to combine over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta and lobster are warmed through. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.

10. Step 10

    In a medium bowl, combine the panko, the rest of the olive oil and the Parmesan; toss until the bread crumbs are coated in oil. Evenly top the pasta with this mixture and broil until the bread crumbs are golden brown and the cheese has melted, about 10 minutes. Let rest for at least 5 minutes before garnishing with reserved fennel fronds, and serving.