Soba Noodle Soup

Soba Noodle Soup
Yunhee Kim for The New York Times
Total Time
45 minutes.
Rating
4(325)
Comments
Read comments

A bowl of soba is a beautiful, exotic and delicious centerpiece for a Japanese meal: the not-too-soft, nutty buckwheat noodles sitting in a mahogany broth — dashi — that’s as clear and glossy as beef consommé, not only salty and umami-complex but sweet as well. My favorite variety, tamago toji, is egg-topped. When it’s made right, the egg is almost foamy, soft-scrambled and tender, deliciously flavored by the dashi, a bit of which it absorbs.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • Salt
  • 3cups lightly packed shaved bonito flakes
  • ¾cup soy sauce, preferably light (not low-sodium but usukuchi)
  • ¼cup mirin
  • 2tablespoons sugar
  • 1sheet nori
  • 4eggs
  • About 1 pound soba noodles
  • ½cup chopped scallions
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

544 calories; 7 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 2 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 95 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 7 grams sugars; 30 grams protein; 3859 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat the oven (or a toaster oven) to 300. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In another large pot, bring 10 cups of water to a boil; stir in the bonito flakes, turn off the heat and steep for 10 minutes, no more. Strain into a large bowl; discard the flakes.

  2. Step 2

    Put the soy sauce, mirin, sugar and a pinch of salt in the pot you used to make the broth; bring to a boil. Let it boil for a minute, then add the bonito stock; bring it back to a boil, and transfer 6 cups to a separate pot and keep hot. (This will be the broth for the soup; what remains is for cooking the eggs.) Toast the nori in the oven until slightly crisp, about 5 minutes. Cut into quarters and set aside. Crack the eggs into a bowl or a large measuring cup with a spout and beat until frothy.

  3. Step 3

    Cook the noodles in the boiling water until just tender, 3 to 4 minutes, then drain, quickly rinse under cold running water and drain again. Put a portion of noodles into each of four soup bowls. Using a circular pouring motion, slowly stream the eggs, ⅓ at a time, into the smaller amount of boiling broth; as the first third sets, add the second; as the second sets, add the third, then turn off the heat and let the eggs sit for a minute. In the meantime ladle the stock (the one without the eggs in it) over the noodles. Use a slotted spoon to scoop a portion of the egg into each bowl, garnish with the nori and scallions and serve.

Ratings

4 out of 5
325 user ratings
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Comments

Describing soba as "exotic" is incredibly Anglo-centric and plays into tired and racist tropes of Asian cultures as being strange and beguiling.

I see I'm replying many months later, but this method of cooking the egg is called "tamago toji" as noted in the original description of this dish. It's often called "egg drop" in English, as in egg drop soup.

For crisping the sheets of nori, I grew up holding the nori by its corners over a hot stove burner for just a second or two. Much more energy efficient than heating up an entire oven for a sheet of paper-thin seaweed.

The poached scrambled eggs recipe sounds somewhat like the method described here and has a picture

This is a go-to winter dish for me. I skip the egg and add steamed broccoli or sugar snap peas and crisped tofu cubes.

I was surprised how sweet the broth was. I think I will cut out at least half the sugar next time.

I rarely find a NYT Cooking recipe that I don’t like. We fix and eat a lot of Japanese food. I thought this soup was just terrible, I’m sorry to say.

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