Gok Jai (Vegetable Crystal Dumplings)

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Prepare the filling: Drain the soaked shiitake mushrooms, squeezing out any excess water, and cut them in half (it’s OK to leave the stalks on). Repeat with the wood ear mushrooms.

2. Step 2

   The filling ingredients can be chopped into small, uniform pieces by hand with a knife, or in a food processor. If using a food processor, only use the pulse button in short bursts, as the ingredients should get chopped into small pieces rather than puréed or blended. For the processor, add the carrot and celery and pulse until they are in small chunks. Add the shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, water chestnuts, tofu and pickled mustard stems; pulse about 20 times until everything looks finely chopped. If there are any larger pieces, take them out and chop them up by hand.

3. Step 3

   Heat a large skillet on medium-high. Drizzle with about 1 tablespoon of oil and then add the chopped filling ingredients. Add the sugar and toss to combine. Cook until the celery and mushrooms have softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the soy sauce and toss to combine. Turn off the heat. Taste and then season very well with 1½ to 2 teaspoons of salt and a big pinch of pepper. The filling should taste on the edge of being too salty, because the wrappers are neutral in flavor. Add the scallions and cornstarch and toss well to combine. Transfer to a bowl, then set aside.

4. Step 4

   To make the dough, you will need a large pot with a lid and boiling water. (The temperature is essential here, as the boiling water heats the starches, which makes them gelatinous so the wrappers achieve their chewy texture.) Place the wheat starch, tapioca starch and potato starch into the pot and whisk to combine. Carefully pour in the boiling water and stir to combine as much as you can. (There’s no need to fully combine; there will be lots of dry flour.) Immediately cover with the lid to allow it to steam for 10 minutes.

5. Step 5

   The dough will still be very hot, so wear some disposable gloves, if needed. Using your hands or a flexible pastry scraper (or both!), bring the dough together in the pot until the dry starch is mixed in and it has become a big, craggy mass.

6. Step 6

   Add a few drops of neutral oil to a clean work surface. Turn out the dough and knead it until it goes from sticky to smooth, less sticky, slightly tacky and more elastic, about 10 minutes. The flexible pastry scraper is helpful in moving the dough around and lifting the sticky dough off the work surface. You can also knead it in a stand mixer by first greasing the bowl then using a dough hook on medium speed for 7 to 8 minutes, stopping to scrape the dough off the bottom and sides when needed. If the dough is too hard to handle at any point of the kneading, spread a tiny amount of oil on your hands to make working with the dough easier.

7. Step 7

   Wash your hands. Cut the dough into 6 even pieces, cover with a wet tea towel, and let it sit for 5 minutes while you clean your work area. (It’s good practice to wash your hands often, as any bits of dough stuck to your hands will make handling this dough harder.)

8. Step 8

   Taking one piece of dough at a time, roll it out into a long, 1½-inch-thick log. Cut into eight 1-inch pieces (add any end pieces back to other dough). Working with one piece at a time, roll into a ball and then, either using a small rolling pin or a tortilla press (cover both sides in plastic wrap or parchment paper so it doesn’t stick), roll or press each ball into a ¼-inch-thick flat disk that is about 3½ inches in diameter. Do not roll it too thin, as the dough tears easily. After you have rolled or pressed these 8 wrappers, fill them before working with the next piece of dough.

9. Step 9

   Place the wrapper in the palm of your hand and add 2 heaped teaspoons of the filling (do not overfill). Fold in half and pinch the edge together firmly to seal the filling. Starting at one corner, and using your thumb, fold and pinch small pleats into the edge, to form a crimped, braided pattern, until you reach the other corner. Place on a parchment paper-lined sheet pan and continue folding the remaining dumplings. (There is no need to cover them, as they will be fine sitting out until you are ready to cook. If you would like to freeze at this stage, see Tip below for instructions.)

10. Step 10

    Set up your steamer: Place 2 to 3 inches of water into a wide pot (make sure it fits your bamboo steamer or steaming basket), cover and bring to a boil. Line a bamboo steamer or steamer basket with liner sheets or parchment paper (cut a few slits with scissors to let air flow). Arrange the dumplings in the steamer, making sure they don’t touch one another or the side of the steamer, and carefully set the steamer on top of the pot. Steam over medium-high heat until the dumplings look slightly translucent, 12 to 14 minutes. They will become more translucent as they cool. (Tip: If the dumplings stick together or to the sides of the steamer, pour water over the top to loosen them without tearing.) Continue cooking the remaining dumplings, making sure to top up the water often.

11. Step 11

    Traditionally the dumplings are eaten unadorned, without sauces, but they are very nice eaten with your choice of chile crisp or chile oil.