Maitake au Poivre

Updated Dec. 3, 2024

Maitake au Poivre
Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.
Total Time
45 minutes
Prep Time
5 minutes
Cook Time
40 minutes
Rating
4(122)
Comments
Read comments

Hold the steak. This vegetarian take on steak au poivre, from Manhattan’s Café Chelsea, boasts the same generous application of crushed black pepper, mellowed with cream, stock and a vibrant splash of Cognac, but calls for slabs of maitake mushroom instead of beef. To strut its meaty swagger, the dish is listed on Café Chelsea’s menu among the grilled choices (a grill pan or skillet works just as well) rather than being relegated to the vegetable section. The restaurant opts for large slices of maitake, but the recipe works with several smaller pieces as well. Though quick to assemble, it’s not easy to scale up, so think intimate dinner or Valentine’s Day. —Florence Fabricant

Featured in: Mushrooms, Long a Supporting Player, Find the Leading Role

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Ingredients

Yield:2 servings
  • ¼ounce dried mushrooms, preferably porcini
  • 3tablespoons unsalted butter, preferably high fat (European style)
  • 4tablespoons mushroom soy sauce (see Tip) or regular soy sauce
  • 1tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1garlic clove, thinly sliced
  • 1tablespoon minced shallot
  • 1tablespoon crushed black peppercorns
  • ¼cup Cognac or brandy
  • ½cup heavy cream
  • Salt
  • 2large slices maitake (hen-of-the-woods) mushroom, each about 6 inches wide and 1 to 1½ inches thick (from 1 to 2 large maitakes)
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (2 servings)

513 calories; 46 grams fat; 25 grams saturated fat; 1 gram trans fat; 15 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 3 grams sugars; 5 grams protein; 1778 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Place dried mushrooms in a small bowl, add ½ cup hot water (tap is fine) and let soak at least 30 minutes. Strain the mushroom stock through a mesh sieve into another small bowl, gently squeezing the mushrooms to release more of the liquid. (Save the softened mushrooms for another use.)

  2. Step 2

    While the mushrooms soak, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a small saucepan over medium, swirling occasionally. After about 3 minutes, when the foam subsides and the melted butter turns nut-brown with browned bits at the bottom of the pan, add 2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce to the pan, swirl to combine and set aside.

  3. Step 3

    In a medium skillet, heat oil over medium-low. Add garlic and shallots and cook until softened and barely starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Add peppercorns, cook briefly and then add Cognac. Step back and flame the mixture by carefully lighting the sauce with a long-reach lighter or long fireplace match; it will ignite quickly. When the flames die out (about 30 seconds), add the reserved mushroom stock and the cream, swirling to combine. When the mixture returns to a simmer, cook 3 to 4 minutes to reduce and thicken the sauce. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce and then add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter bit by bit, swirling to combine. Season with salt, if necessary, and set aside.

  4. Step 4

    Shortly before serving, brush the maitake slices to remove any grit. Then brush them with the brown butter-soy sauce and season lightly with salt.

  5. Step 5

    Heat a grill, a grill pan or a cast-iron skillet over medium for 1 to 2 minutes. Cook the mushrooms, gently pressing them down with a spatula, until nicely browned and slightly crisped, about 3 minutes per side. Reheat the peppercorn cream sauce on low. Divide the mushroom slices between dinner plates, pour the sauce over and around them and serve immediately.

Tip
  • Mushroom soy sauce is typically a bit darker and sweeter than regular soy sauce and tastes more intense, thanks to a flavor boost from mushrooms. It’s available at Asian markets, many supermarkets and online.

Ratings

4 out of 5
122 user ratings
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Comments

Every Mid-October I know of a ~400 year old Grandfather Oak tree that I get between 10 to 30 pounds of wild Miatake. Except for this year. I was out of town during the entire 2.5 weeks of my forage window. When I finally got to "my tree" there were two nice 6 to 7 pound chunks of Maitake sitting right there - rotting. Bad news was I missed the window, Good news is nobody else has discovered my tree. Crossing fingers, I'll put this in my recipe box, and make it in 2025.

@home cook. To make this vegan try using Miyokos unsalted plant based butter and make some cashew cream instead of dairy cream. Just look up a recipe for cashew cream. It’s quick and easy. You could also try any other unsalted vegan butter you find and some non-dairy “half & half” or non dairy “creamer”. There are many different brands in store. Another option for cream is nondairy sour cream (like Tofutti brand) or a plain, unsweetened yogurt (like Forager).

Can portobello mushrooms be substituted for Maitake?

When I was first dating my husband, he made dinner one night and did that thing in Step 3: "...add Cognac. Step back and flame the mixture by carefully lighting the sauce with a long-reach lighter or long fireplace match." I have the photo. The flame is nearly three feet tall. I said to myself, "This is the guy for me."

So yummy! Used regular soy sauce not mushroom & thought it was a tad too salty, also used regular butter, otherwise made as instructed and I loved it, I’ll start with less soy sauce next time

Loved this dish, especially that sauce; it was so satisfying and umami with the butter and soy flavors and it was simple to prepare and clean up! A winner all round. We served it with pork chops which was a great flavor combination but it was a heavy meal and we could not finish it! Leftovers…

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Credits

Adapted from Derek Boccagno, Café Chelsea, New York

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