Cantonese-Style Steamed Fish

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Fill a salad spinner with very cold water, and add cilantro leaves and tender stems. Rinse larger cilantro stems and scatter in a plate large enough to fit your fish.

2. Step 2

   Trim the skin and small knobs off the ginger, and scatter trimmings over the plated cilantro stems. Cut the peeled ginger lengthwise into the thinnest planks you can, then cut those planks into slivers — the thinner, the better – and transfer to the salad spinner.

3. Step 3

   Roughly split scallions where the light green parts transition to dark green. Add dark green ends to the plate.

4. Step 4

   Cut scallion whites and light green parts crosswise into rough 2-inch segments, then split each in half lengthwise. Laying each half segment cut side down on the cutting board, slice it lengthwise into the thinnest slivers you can and add to the salad spinner.

5. Step 5

   In a small bowl, stir together the soy sauce, sherry, sugar and 1 tablespoon water until the sugar is mostly dissolved. Set aside.

6. Step 6

   Place a steaming rack or a few clean, empty tuna cans with tops and bottoms removed in a wide, deep, lidded pan or wok, add enough water to reach just below the top of the rack, then bring the water to a boil over high heat.

7. Step 7

   Meanwhile, if using whole fish, rinse it under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. If fish is 2 pounds or larger, slash deeply through its flesh perpendicular to its spine a couple of times for more even cooking. (No need to rinse or slash fillets.) Lightly salt the fish, stuffing a few aromatics from the plate into the whole fish’s cavity, if necessary. Place fish on aromatics, shingling fillets, if necessary, to fit.

8. Step 8

   Transfer plate to the steamer, cover, and steam until the meat near the thickest part of the fleshy neck of the fish (or the thickest part of a fillet) shows little resistance or flakes when poked, about 7 to 10 minutes for flat fish and thin fillets, and 9 to 12 minutes for round fish.

9. Step 9

   With a thin metal spatula (or two), carefully transfer fish to a serving platter. Alternatively, if you don’t mind guests picking out the ginger skin and cilantro stems, serve the fish on the steaming plate. Just drain the liquid by holding the fish down gently with a spatula as you tilt the plate over the sink. Pour the sauce mixture over the hot fish.

10. Step 10

    Drain and spin aromatics in the salad spinner and toss them into a tangled bird’s nest. Spread half of the aromatics over the fish. Sprinkle with chile, if using. Heat the oil in a small skillet until shimmering and just barely starting to smoke. Carefully spoon or pour the hot oil over the aromatics. They should sputter and sizzle significantly (see Tip). Top with remaining fresh aromatics and serve immediately.