Tamales

Updated Dec. 14, 2023

Tamales
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
5 hours 45 minutes
Prep Time
15 minutes
Cook Time
5 hours 30 minutes
Rating
4(115)
Comments
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Tamales are a traditional Central and South American dish of masa, a corn dough, that is filled with meat, vegetables, cheese and seasonings, then wrapped in a corn husk or banana leaf and steamed. They have been around for thousands of years — the Aztec and the Maya people ate them — so there are innumerable delicious variations, but this Mexican version, which is known as rojos de puerco, is filled with braised pork and red chile sauce. Often served at special events like weddings, baptisms, first communions and the like, tamales are particularly important to Mexicans and Mexican-Americans at Christmas time during which tamaladas, or tamale-making parties, are hosted to divide the work, share the food and enjoy each other’s company. For convenience, this recipe calls for masa harina, a dried form of masa that can be found in most supermarkets and is reconstituted with water and fat, but if you can find fresh masa, use it for outrageously good, authentic results.

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Ingredients

Yield:16 tamales
  • ounces/72 grams dried guajillo or New Mexico red chiles, stemmed and seeded (about 10 to 15, depending on size)
  • 3dried chiles de árbol, stemmed (seeded for mild), or 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
  • 1large poblano pepper, stemmed, seeded and roughly chopped
  • ¼medium white onion, roughly chopped (about ½ cup)
  • 1head garlic, cloves separated and peeled
  • ½teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 5whole cloves
  • 4dried bay leaves
  • 2teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  • 1teaspoon black peppercorns
  • Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
  • 2pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat
  • 7cups/805 grams masa harina, such as Maseca (If using fresh masa, see Tip.)
  • 1cup lard, melted, or vegetable oil, plus more as needed
  • 30dried corn husks (from a 1-pound bag)
  • Fresh salsa and lime wedges, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    For the pork: Heat the oven to 250 degrees. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, layer guajillo, chiles de árbol, poblano, onion, garlic, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaves, oregano, peppercorns, 5 teaspoons salt, pork and ¾ cup water over medium-high heat. Bring mixture to a boil, cover pot and transfer to oven.

  2. Step 2

    Braise pork until it is very tender and shreds easily, 3 to 3½ hours. Let cool, uncovered, for 15 minutes, then transfer pork to a large bowl and skim fat from the sauce. Using a potato masher or two large forks, smash or pull pork to shred the meat.

  3. Step 3

    Transfer chile and spice mixture (including bay leaves) and the liquid to a blender and process until smooth. (It should be the consistency of a thick marinara sauce.) Transfer 2 cups of the sauce (leaving additional sauce in the blender to be used in the next step) to the shredded pork and stir until completely coated. Taste and season with salt, if necessary. (Filling can be made 3 days ahead. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.)

  4. Step 4

    To the blender, add water to the reserved chile sauce to make 1¼ cups total. Add 4 teaspoons of salt and process until the salt is dissolved. Set aside to add to the masa in Step 6.

  5. Step 5

    Soak corn husks in a large bowl of hot water until soft and pliable, about 15 minutes. Using your hands, swirl husks in water to loosen any silks or dirt. Drain, rinse and shake off excess water.

  6. Step 6

    Meanwhile, make the masa: Combine masa harina, 2 cups warm water, lard and reserved 1¼ cups salted chile sauce in a large bowl. Mix with your hands until well incorporated and the mixture is shiny and smooth, about 5 minutes. The texture should resemble a very thick hummus; if it appears crumbly, add water 2 tablespoons at a time and mix thoroughly until it reaches the correct texture.

  7. Step 7

    Clean your hands and slap the top of masa with your palm, immediately pulling your hand back. If masa doesn’t stick and your hand looks shiny, the dough is ready and has enough fat to prevent it from sticking to the corn husks. If the masa sticks, add another 2 tablespoons of lard and knead until incorporated; repeat slap test. If masa still sticks to your hand, repeat the process until you get there. (Another 2 tablespoons of lard should do it.)

  8. Step 8

    Assemble the tamales: Set aside 16 husks that are at least 6 inches across at the widest part. (Keep extra on hand in case of tears. Reserve smaller husks for lining the pot.) Place a husk on a work surface and open it so the wide end is closest to you. Scoop ½ cup masa in the center of the husk. Using the back of a spoon or your hands, pat masa into an even ⅓-inch-thick layer on the bottom half of the husk, leaving a ½-inch border on the edge closest to you, and allowing plenty of room at the top to fold down later.

  9. Step 9

    Place ⅓ cup of the pork filling down the center of the masa. Fold one long side of the husk over the filling, then the other. Fold the top end underneath. Set on a sheet pan seam-side up. Repeat with remaining tamales.

  10. Step 10

    Steam the tamales: Line a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, deep enough to fit the tamales upright, with reserved husks. Arrange tamales standing up with the folded ends on the bottom of the pot and the seams facing the wall of the pot. Continue stacking tamales around the perimeter, leaning them against one another to keep the ends folded in tightly. If the pot has extra space in the middle when all of the tamales have been added, fill it with a ball of aluminum foil. Carefully pour water into the pot until it comes about ¾-inch up the side. Bring to a boil over high, then reduce heat to a medium boil. Cover pot and cook tamales for 1 hour, undisturbed, adding more water as needed to keep the pot steaming.

  11. Step 11

    Check for doneness by removing one tamal from the pot; let cool for 3 minutes. (If you don’t let it rest before checking, masa will stick to the husk and appear gummy.) Remove the husk; it should peel back easily when it’s done. If masa sticks to the husk, it’s not ready. Refold and return tamal to the pot. Cook 5 minutes more and check again. Once tamales are done, turn off the heat, uncover and let tamales sit for 10 minutes before unwrapping.

  12. Step 12

    Serve tamales with salsa and lime wedges.

Tips
  • You cannot substitute traditional cornmeal, corn flour or masarepa for masa harina.
  • Instructions for using fresh masa: Fresh masa is available at most Latin markets and online. Look for “unprepared” masa. (“Prepared” masa has added lard and seasonings, but “unprepared” has only corn, water and lime, so you can control the amount of lard and seasoning.) To use unprepared masa in this recipe, you’ll need 4½ pounds of fresh, coarse-ground masa.
  • In Step 6, combine the fresh masa with 1¼ cups lard and the reserved 1¼ cups chile mixture in a large bowl. Mix with your hands until well incorporated and mixture is shiny and smooth, about 5 minutes. The texture should resemble a very thick hummus; if it appears crumbly, add water 2 tablespoons at a time and mix thoroughly until it reaches the correct texture. Proceed as directed through the remainder of the recipe.
  • Storage: Tamales last in the refrigerator, kept in their husks and wrapped tightly in plastic, for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to 6 months. To reheat, thaw completely and steam using a pot and steamer basket until completely warmed through, or wrap in a damp paper towel and heat in the microwave in 30 second intervals until hot and steamy.

Ratings

4 out of 5
115 user ratings
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Comments

Wow. This is as legit as it gets. Amazing recipe, truly, truly authentic. My mom does add other dried chiles, usually a mixture of guajillo, ancho and morita, but I have absolutely 0 complaints with the recipe. Rick traveling Mexico during Covid has given us the best Mexican recipes we could wish for. Authentic perfection.

For the masa, even if using fresh masa my mother-in-law insisted on whipping more shortening into the dough. She tested the dough's lightness by putting a small ball of dough into a glass of water. If the dough floated, it passed her test. If the dough didn't float, she wanted us to mix in more shortening. Every pork tamale had 3 olives included in it. And my tip: put a big pot of albondigas on to cook when the tamale making party starts. People will be hungry long before the tamales are ready.

I was just looking at this recipe as a vegan and had the idea of subbing the pork for jackfruit and the lard with Crisco.

My family owned a Mexican market that sold masa. We cousins were recruited yearly during Christmas break to help grind , mix, and pack orders for the customers lined up out the door. I make them every year. This year 12 dozen. The chili rojo process I use is not to cook it with the stewed pork but after stemming and seeding the chilis, roast for a few minutes in the oven to bring up the oils. Then stew them in water for 30 minutes. I then drain them and run the chilis through a tomato press or a food mill to separate out the papery skins and any seeds. The result is a chili pulp the consistency of applesauce. Then I fry the pulp in a little oil, add cumin and minced onion and garlic and then add in the defatted pork broth until it’s the consistency of heavy cream. This gets added to the shredded pork, the masa, and the reserve is heated for sauce to pour over the steamed tamales. We always add one black olive as the baby Jesus. Also you can put a nickel or a pre 1987 penny in the bottom of the steamer to listen to the jiggle that tells you there is enough water in the pot.

In Santa Fe, we believe if you're going to make tamales you should have a few people over for a "tamalada," a tamale-making party, and do at least 12 dozen. They freeze beautifully. See if a Mexican market or a tortillaria in your city has "masa preparada." It'll save you the work of making your own. And you may as well make some green chile chicken and tamales dulces, sweet tamales that often have pecans, raisins and pineapple. There are many recipes online.

Walmart sells tamale pots, at least in New Mexico. Any kind of steamer pot would work, and is the authentic way to cook or reheat tamales. You don't want them to touch the water.

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