Handvo (Savory Vegetable Semolina Bread)

Published April 21, 2021

Handvo (Savory Vegetable Semolina Bread)
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
1½ hours
Rating
4(74)
Comments
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Handvo, a savory vegetable bread from the Indian state of Gujarat, is a near constant in the home of Anita Jaisinghani, the chef and owner of Pondicheri restaurant in Houston. Using hot water in the dough helps meld the flavors and hydrate the flours, as well as kickstart the leavening process. Ms. Jaisinghani makes many different versions — this carrot one is layered with the fragrance of toasted spices, the warmth of ginger and the freshness of herbs. Thanks to the pumpkin and sesame seeds that toast on top while it bakes, it also has an extra crunchy crust. The accompanying yogurt sauce is quickly — and deliciously — seasoned with aromatic spices tempered in oil. This is typically served as a snack, but is substantial enough to be a light meal when served with a salad. —Rachel Wharton

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Ingredients

Yield:4 to 6 servings

    For the Handvo

    • ¼cup vegetable oil
    • ¼cup roasted unsalted peanuts, chopped
    • 1teaspoon cumin seeds
    • 30 to 40fresh curry leaves (from 3 to 4 stems), chopped (see Tips)
    • 2medium carrots, coarsely grated (198 grams; 1½ cups loosely packed)
    • 1cup/130 grams semolina flour
    • 1cup/64 grams chopped fresh fenugreek leaves and stems or ¼ cup dried fenugreek (see Tips)
    • ½cup/29 grams chopped fresh cilantro leaves
    • ½cup/113 grams plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature
    • 2tablespoons chickpea or lentil flour (optional)
    • 1tablespoon grated peeled fresh ginger
    • teaspoons fine sea salt
    • 1teaspoon baking powder
    • 1teaspoon red chile powder
    • ½teaspoon ground turmeric
    • ½teaspoon baking soda
    • 2tablespoons sesame seeds
    • 2tablespoons raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

    For the Yogurt Sauce

    • ½cup plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature
    • 1tablespoon granulated sugar
    • ½teaspoon fine sea salt
    • 2tablespoons vegetable oil
    • 3large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
    • 1teaspoon black mustard seeds
    • 10 to 12fresh curry leaves (from 1 stem), chopped
    • Pinch of red chile powder
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

373 calories; 22 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 13 grams monounsaturated fat; 5 grams polyunsaturated fat; 35 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams dietary fiber; 5 grams sugars; 11 grams protein; 324 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Arrange an oven rack in the lowest position and heat oven to 350 degrees.

  2. Step 2

    Make the handvo: In a large (10-inch) cast-iron or nonstick oven-safe skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high. When the oil begins to shimmer but is not yet smoking, add the peanuts and fry, stirring continuously, until they begin to take on color and toast, a minute or two. Immediately add the cumin seeds, stirring just until they begin to pop and sizzle, about 10 seconds, then immediately stir in the curry leaves and turn off the heat. (Be careful as the curry leaves will spatter.) Scrape into a large bowl. Reserve the skillet, but don’t clean it.

  3. Step 3

    To the bowl, add the carrots, semolina, fenugreek, cilantro, yogurt, chickpea flour (if using), ginger, salt, baking powder, chile powder, turmeric and baking soda. Stir until well mixed. Run the hot water tap until the water is very hot (120 degrees) and measure out 1 cup. (Or heat 1 cup water to about 120 degrees in a small pot or kettle.) Add to the semolina-carrot mixture and stir until everything is evenly mixed. Immediately pour it into the skillet you used to toast the spices in the oil. Sprinkle the sesame seeds and the pumpkin seeds, if using, over the top.

  4. Step 4

    Bake until the sides pull back a little from the edges and the center is set, 40 to 45 minutes. It is better to overbake rather than underbake to achieve a crisp crust. Cool in the pan on a rack for 10 to 15 minutes.

  5. Step 5

    Meanwhile, make the yogurt sauce: In a small bowl, stir together the yogurt, sugar and salt. Set this aside and, in a small skillet, heat the oil over medium-high to high. When the oil begins to shimmer but is not yet smoking, add the garlic. Stirring constantly, cook it just until the edges turn golden brown, about 1 minute, then immediately add the mustard seeds and chopped curry leaves, and remove the pan from the heat. Carefully pour the oil into the seasoned yogurt, leaving a few teaspoons of the spices and herbs in the pan, and fold the oil and yogurt together. Sprinkle the reserved spices and herbs and the chile powder over the top.

  6. Step 6

    If the edges of the handvo are stuck to the skillet, use a spatula to release the sides. Flip the handvo out of the pan or, to serve it with the seeds on top, gently slide it onto a serving plate using a large spatula. Cut into slices or squares and serve warm or at room temperature with the yogurt sauce.

Tips
  • If you can’t find curry leaves, you can use the leaves of 1 fresh rosemary sprig instead.
  • If you can’t find fenugreek leaves, you can use ¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds and add them to the oil with the cumin seeds; or leave it out.

Ratings

4 out of 5
74 user ratings
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Comments

An instant and somewhat healthy (no protein) adaptation of handvo with 1 key spice missing (asafoetida). While the omission does not render it wrong, asafoetida is an integral component of nearly all Gujarati cuisine and its flavor adds to the yumminess! The original batter of handvo is a dry mix of coarsely ground rice and daal (3:1 ratio) soaked (mildly fermented) for a few hours in yoghurt before proceeding with preferred veggie and spice additions. Often, no veggies are added (less healthy)

I've seen semolina flour sold in different grinds (coarse/medium/fine) - is there one that's preferable in this handvo recipe?

I didn’t have semolina but was dying to try this so I used an equal weight of whole-wheat flour. Non-traditional perhaps, but it turned out delicious.

Any thoughts about using a vegan yogurt for the bread?

This is wonderful, full of flavor. Next time, will cook it longer than the 45 minutes so it does get the crust. It might make it easier to get out of the pan. I used an offset spatula to loosen the sides, it worked well.

I like to use fine sooji for handvo

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Credits

Anita Jaisinghani

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