Cervelle de Canut (Herbed Cheese Spread)

Published July 22, 2020

Cervelle de Canut (Herbed Cheese Spread)
Andrew Purcell for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Carrie Purcell.
Total Time
10 minutes, plus draining and chilling
Rating
4(154)
Comments
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The author Bill Buford spent years in Lyon, France, researching French cuisine for his book “Dirt.” He picked up this recipe from a modern Lyonnaise bouchon, Le Bouchon des Filles. The simple, savory mixture of fromage blanc with shallots, garlic and other seasonings is a mainstay in Lyon, where it often appears with the cheese course. (Or it may be the cheese course.) The name means silk worker's brain, a mysterious reference to the days when silk weaving made Lyon rich. This version is set apart by its lavish use of fresh herbs. —Pete Wells

Featured in: Zooming In on Bill Buford’s Latest Obsession

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Ingredients

Yield:2 cups
  • 1pound fresh, whole-milk, full-fat fromage blanc (ideally from a farm)
  • 1small shallot, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 2tablespoons chopped fresh herb leaves (such as dill, tarragon, chives, chervil and parsley)
  • teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1teaspoon red wine vinegar
  • ½small garlic clove
  • ¾teaspoon salt, plus more as needed
  • ¼teaspoon freshly ground pepper, plus more as needed
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

123 calories; 8 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 1 gram monounsaturated fat; 0 grams polyunsaturated fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams dietary fiber; 5 grams sugars; 9 grams protein; 299 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    If using farm-fresh cheese, line a sieve with two layers of cheesecloth and place over a bowl. Add the fromage blanc and let it strain at room temperature for at least 3 to 4 hours to eliminate excess liquid.

  2. Step 2

    Combine fromage blanc with all remaining ingredients in a food processor and blend until the shallots are finely chopped and the texture begins to resemble cottage cheese, about 30 seconds.

  3. Step 3

    Empty into a bowl and whisk; season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve chilled; eat with a spoon or serve with baguette.

Ratings

4 out of 5
154 user ratings
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Comments

Might a similar but different "cheese" be made from this recipe with full fat yogurt?

I have been making a version of this for years using whipped cream cheese and generally same ingredients. Drizzle of OO, one or two garlic cloves thru a press, dried Italian herbs are easiest but I use the fresh rosemary I grow as well. I forgo the added texture of onion but I always add a sprinkle of pepper flakes. Pepper is fine but I generally dont add extra salt. It can be pressed into a ramekin but I generally mound it centered on a plate finished with drizzle of OO and more herbs.

Guys, looking for a substitute, I would suggest trying Chevre, commonly referred to as "goat's cheese". I don't know the flavor profile of this Blanc one, but I promise the Chevre will be lovely.

We recently went to a cooking class in Lyon at the Cafe - Atelier. They made this delicious spread with cream cheese and gave us a recipe very similar to this. They used 1T of olive oil and 1 T of their own wine vinegar which they make on the premise. It was delicious.

I’ve seen “farmers cheese” with the cream cheese which may make a decent sub. But, I’ve actually bought a fromage blanc culture from a cheese making supplier online and have just made it myself with whole milk (also add calcium chloride since it’s pasteurized, to get firmer curd). I also can’t find chervil, so I just use the other mentioned fresh herbs. It turns out delicious!

For those who can’t find fromage blanc it’s easy to make. Milk, buttermilk, lemon juice. Boil it to 175, let it sit, then put it in cheesecloth and drain. So good!

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Credits

Adapted from Le Bouchon des Filles, Lyon, France

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