Homemade Sour Bulgur Trahana From Ikaria

Homemade Sour Bulgur Trahana From Ikaria
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Total Time
3½ to 4½ hours (includes 3 to 4 hours unsupervised baking)
Rating
4(41)
Comments
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Trahana is a wheat product that is eaten throughout Greece and the Eastern Mediterranean. There are many versions, some made with milk, usually from goats or sheep that is called sweet trahana, some with a combination of milk and yogurt, called sour trahana, and even a lenten version made with vegetable pulp. The liquid is combined with wheat – bulgur, semolina, or a mix of semolina and flour – and made into a dry dough (if using flour) or simmered until it is a thick porridge. Then it is spread out on netting and dried in the sun. Once thoroughly dry it is broken up into granules that can range in size from bulgurlike morsels to small pellets. You can find imported Greek trahana in Greek markets. I found five different types in my local Greek market in Los Angeles and each one behaves a little bit differently when you cook it. It is easy to make yourself, as I found when I made this recipe from Diane Kochilas’s wonderful new cookbook “Ikaria: Lessons on Food, Life, and Longevity From the Greek Island Where People Forget to Die.” This is the trahana that I used for all of this week’s Recipes for Health. I am happy to have this new staple on hand in my pantry.

Featured in: It’s Time to Try Nutty, Sour Trahana

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Ingredients

Yield:1¼ pounds trahana, about 18 servings
  • 3cups / 18 ounces coarse bulgur
  • 1cup plain Greek whole-milk yogurt
  • 1cup whole cow’s milk
  • 1cup whole goat’s milk
  • 1tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (18 servings)

124 calories; 2 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 0 grams monounsaturated fat; 0 grams polyunsaturated fat; 24 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 2 grams sugars; 5 grams protein; 163 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Place all of the ingredients in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring to prevent bulgur from sticking to the bottom of pan. Simmer, stirring, until mixture is a dense, just-about-solid mass and very hard to stir, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat.

  2. Step 2

    Preheat oven to 250 degrees and line a sheet pan with parchment. Spread bulgur mixture on parchment in an even layer. It should fill the baking sheet and should be about ¼ inch thick.

  3. Step 3

    Place in oven and bake until completely dry and brittle, 3 to 4 hours. It should only color slightly. If trahana on the edges of pan begins to brown, remove that portion and return pan to the oven until all of the trahana is completely dry.

  4. Step 4

    Remove from oven and allow to cool, then break up into chunks or granules (in my experience the trahana falls apart into granules rather than chunks). Store in jars in a cool, dry place.

Tip
  • Advance preparation: Trahana keeps for a year in jars at room temperature (most Greeks store it in muslin bags).

Ratings

4 out of 5
41 user ratings
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Comments

easy enough to do, most of the time spent is keeping an eye on the oven. Used it in one soup and it's a good start. I want to play around with the recipes some more.

You can use just cow's milk but the result will be a less complex taste. The goat's milk adds a lovely complexity. Typically in Greece, the best quality trahana is made with just goat/sheep's milk.

My tiny Greek grandmother would serve tranaha as a breakfast porridge, over dry bread drizzled with browned butter. It's definitely peasant food, but it also reminds me of her. As for those wondering why this 'bland' product exists, my theory is that it was a good way to store milk/yogurt long term at a time and in an area without modern refrigeration.

I substituted regular whole milk yogurt not greek. I hope it works out.

Has anyone tried to make this with 2 cups cow's milk instead of 1 cup goat's milk and 1 cup cow's milk?

You can use just cow's milk but the result will be a less complex taste. The goat's milk adds a lovely complexity. Typically in Greece, the best quality trahana is made with just goat/sheep's milk.

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