Risotto Milanese With Parmesan Stock

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Make stock: Place Parmesan rinds, bay leaf and thyme in a soup pot or large heavy saucepan and add 3 quarts water. Bring to a simmer. Skim off foam, cover partly and simmer 1 hour over very low heat. Add parsley and garlic cloves and continue to simmer 30 minutes, partly covered. Uncover, add salt to taste, and simmer another 30 minutes.

2. Step 2

   Line a strainer with cheesecloth and place over a large bowl. Strain stock into bowl. Refrigerate it, preferably overnight. Before reheating, remove fat from top and discard. You should have about 2 quarts broth.

3. Step 3

   Pour broth into a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Make sure that it is well seasoned but not overly seasoned, as it will reduce and become saltier. Put saffron in a small bowl and cover with 1 tablespoon hot water.

4. Step 4

   Heat olive oil over medium heat in a wide heavy skillet or saucepan. Add onion and a generous pinch of salt and cook until onion is just tender, about 3 minutes. Do not brown. Add rice and stir just until grains begin to crackle, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring, until it has been absorbed.

5. Step 5

   Begin adding simmering broth, a couple of ladles at a time. Add saffron with soaking water with first addition of broth. Broth should just cover the rice and should be bubbling. Stir often and vigorously. When broth has just about evaporated, add another ladle or 2 to just cover rice. Continue to cook in this way until rice is aldente, about 20 to 25 minutes. Add a little pepper, taste and adjust seasoning.

6. Step 6

   Add another ladleful of broth to the rice. Stir in butter and Parmesan and remove from heat. Mixture should be creamy. Serve right away.