Fancy Meatloaf

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Heat oven to 375 degrees. Soak bread in milk for 10 minutes.

2. Step 2

   Mix beef, veal, eggs, pancetta, Parmesan, parsley and lemon zest in a large bowl. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Squeeze the bread to remove excess milk, then chop and add it to the meat. Mix gently until well combined, but do not overmix. Transfer onto a board and shape into a fine meatloaf, shy of a foot in length and 4 inches across. Loosely cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

3. Step 3

   Heat oil and butter in a large, ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add meatloaf and sear without moving it until it is browned, about 5 minutes. Carefully slide a spatula under the meatloaf, then gently use another spatula to help turn it and brown the second side, again without moving it for 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

4. Step 4

   Pour out all but 2 tablespoons of the fat, return skillet to the stove and raise heat to high. Add wine and deglaze pan, scraping up browned bits stuck to it with a wooden spoon. Return meatloaf to the skillet and then transfer to the oven, basting occasionally with the pan juices, until a meat thermometer inserted into the center of the loaf reads 150 degrees, about 25 minutes.

5. Step 5

   Transfer the meatloaf to a platter and let stand, tented with foil, 10 minutes. Slice, pour the pan juices over the top and serve.