Asparagus Salad with Soy-Mustard Dressing

There are real differences between skinny and fat asparagus spears, aside from appearance, and it's worth attending to them. With either, you must first break off the woody bottoms (magically, they snap off in pretty much the right place every time), a quick but necessary chore. But it is always worth peeling thick asparagus, from stem to the bottom of the flower bud. The best way to do this is with a vegetable peeler. Lay each spear on a flat surface and give it a few quick strokes.

The difference between peeled and unpeeled thick spears is substantial. When they are peeled, they can be cooked for considerably less time, leaving them bright green and perfectly crisp-tender, rather than a soggy mess. They're done when you can easily insert a skewer or a thin-bladed knife into the thickest part of the stalk. (If you don't peel them, the soggy mess is just about the only way to get the skin tender.)