Green Tomato Chowchow

Here is a chunky relish of cabbage and bell pepper commonly served in the South with salty cold cuts and meats. It couldn’t be simpler: simmer chopped vegetables for 15 minutes in a spiced brine — we use judicious amounts of clove, allspice, cinnamon and toasted coriander — and pack into jars. We tip the balance more toward green tomato than cabbage when green tomatoes are available because we love the tomatillo-like flavor of a green tomato — a near-apple flavor, but without the sweetness. It’s a delicious substitute for any relish you would spread over a hot dog or a burger, but we take it in other directions, too. Mixed one-to-one with good mayonnaise, green tomato chowchow makes the perfect dressing for coleslaw. Sometimes we’ll strain out the brine before we add the mayonnaise to make a killer tartar sauce. Or if we’re feeling indulgent, we’ll drain the chowchow, toss it with squid or small bay scallops and flood it with a fruity extra virgin olive oil for easy mock-ceviche.