Old-Fashioned Coconut Cake

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Prepare the cake: Lightly coat the bottom and sides of 3 (9-inch) cake pans with butter and dust with flour. Line the bottoms with rounds of parchment paper then butter and flour the parchment.

2. Step 2

   In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt and baking soda. In a large measuring cup with a spout, whisk together coconut milk, buttermilk, vanilla extract and coconut extract. Set aside.

3. Step 3

   In the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment (or with a hand mixer, or whisking by hand), beat egg whites until they form firm peaks, 1 to 2 minutes. If using a stand mixer, scoop the egg whites into a different bowl and reuse the mixing bowl for the next step; there’s no need to clean it. Set beaten whites aside.

4. Step 4

   In the stand mixer bowl, with the paddle attachment (or in a separate bowl with a hand mixer), cream butter and granulated sugar together over medium-high speed for several minutes, until extremely fluffy, scraping the bowl often.

5. Step 5

   With the mixer on medium-high, alternate adding one third of the dry and half of the wet ingredients, beginning and ending with the dry, scraping well before and after each addition. Add the shredded coconut and beat on medium-high for about 30 seconds, until well combined.

6. Step 6

   Remove bowl from the stand mixer, if using, and scrape the paddle well. (If the bowl seems very full, transfer the batter to a larger bowl to allow space for adding the egg whites.) Add a third of the beaten egg whites and, using a flexible spatula, fold into the batter by gently scooping up some of the mixture from the bottom and folding it over the whites on the top, rotating the bowl and repeating two more times until no streaks are visible and the egg whites are just incorporated.

7. Step 7

   Evenly distribute the batter among the prepared pans and place in the oven on the middle rack. (All three are likely to fit on one rack, but if they don’t you will need to rotate the positions of the pans halfway through baking.) Bake for 21 to 24 minutes, until the tops are slightly browned. Let cakes cool in the pans on wire racks for at least 30 minutes before turning out of the pans to cool completely. (Cooled cake layers can be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 2 days, or frozen for up to 1 month. To assemble a cake using frozen layers, thaw them overnight at room temperature, still wrapped.)

8. Step 8

   Prepare the frosting: In a clean, dry bowl of a stand mixer or metal mixing bowl (any fat or water can destabilize your egg whites), combine the egg whites and sugar and place over a saucepan of boiling water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Whisk over the double boiler until your sugar has dissolved fully, about 3 minutes. (When you pinch a little between your fingers, it should not feel gritty.) Remove from the heat and beat the egg whites and sugar together rapidly with a whisk or with a stand mixer over high speed until the whites form shiny, stiff peaks, 3 to 4 minutes.

9. Step 9

   With the mixer on medium-high speed, add the room temperature butter gradually, a few pieces at a time, and beat just until fully incorporated and fluffy. (Do not overbeat or the mixture might break; see Tip.) Feel free to start and stop the mixer frequently to help control incorporation. Add the powdered sugar and quickly whisk to combine. Add the vanilla, brandy (if using), coconut extract and salt, and mix until just combined. If desired, gently fold in about 1 cup shredded coconut to the frosting, reserving the rest to decorate the exterior.

10. Step 10

    To assemble: Using a long serrated knife, trim the domed top off each cake layer to create a level surface. Place one cake layer on a serving platter, cut side up. Top with about 1½ cups of frosting; spread evenly. If frosting is soft, chill in the refrigerator for a few minutes before adding the next layer. Repeat with the second layer, cut side up, then top with the final layer, cut side down. Using a large offset spatula, spread a crumb coat (a thin layer of frosting) evenly on the top and sides of the cake. Chill to set the frosting, about 20 minutes.

11. Step 11

    If desired, spread some of the shredded coconut evenly on a sheet pan and lightly toast in a 350-degree oven for a few minutes, stirring frequently so it does not burn. Let cool completely, then toss with the remaining shredded coconut.

12. Step 12

    Cover the chilled cake evenly with the remaining frosting, then immediately add the shredded coconut as desired, pressing lightly to adhere. The frosted cake will keep, loosely covered, at room temperature for up to 2 days; refrigerate leftovers for up to 1 week.