Vanilla Citrus Soufflés

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Set a rack in the center of the oven and heat oven to 400 degrees.

2. Step 2

   To a small bowl, add the sugar and 1 tablespoon grapefruit zest. If using the vanilla bean, cut it in half crosswise, then split each piece in half lengthwise. Scrape out the seeds from one piece and add the seeds to the bowl, reserving the remaining vanilla bean. Gently rub the grapefruit zest and vanilla seeds, if using, into the sugar to create a fragrant citrus sugar.

3. Step 3

   Grease 5 (8-ounce) soufflé ramekins with softened butter, then coat with the citrus sugar, shaking and turning the ramekins as you sprinkle in the citrus sugar so each side is evenly coated. Pour the excess sugar back into the bowl. Refrigerate the ramekins while you prepare the soufflés.

4. Step 4

   In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, flour, salt, pepper, 2 tablespoons citrus sugar and remaining 1 tablespoon grapefruit zest until smooth.

5. Step 5

   In a medium saucepan, combine the milk with the heavy cream. If using a vanilla bean, scrape the seeds from the remaining pieces and add to the milk. Bring to a boil over medium-high. Remove from the heat.

6. Step 6

   Gradually pour ½ cup hot milk into the yolk mixture while whisking constantly. Add the yolk mixture to the remaining hot milk in the saucepan while whisking. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a flexible spatula, scrape the mixture back into the large bowl and whisk in the 1 ½ tablespoons butter and the grapefruit juice.

7. Step 7

   In a metal mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk the egg whites by hand or with an electric mixer on medium-high speed. When the egg whites are foamy, add the cream of tartar, which helps keep the whites from deflating. Continue whisking until soft peaks form. Add 2½ tablespoons citrus sugar and then continue whisking on high until stiff, almost shiny peaks have formed. Don’t take your eyes off the whites; you do not want to overwhip them. If they start to release water, you’ve gone too far and will need to do this step again with all new ingredients.

8. Step 8

   Using a flexible spatula, scoop one-third of the whipped egg whites into the egg yolk mixture and fully mix the two using a light hand to retain as much air as you can. This lightens the thick base significantly and allows you to more evenly mix in the remaining whites. Add half of the remaining whites and fold them in by stirring the mixture in a wide arc then gently lifting and folding the mixture toward the center. Run the spatula through the center and repeat the folding motion until the whites are just incorporated. Add the remaining whites and fold them in, using increasingly delicate motions. By the end, you will be working so delicately that your batter should still have some white streaks.

9. Step 9

   Divide the batter evenly among the ramekins by pouring or scooping. Level the tops with a small offset spatula. Pinch the top rim of each ramekin between two fingers and rotate to clear a tiny bit of batter off the edge all around, which will create a lip for better rising. Place the ramekins on a sheet pan.

10. Step 10

    Bake on the pan on the middle rack without opening the oven door until the tops have risen 1 to 1½ inches above the rims of the ramekins, 13 to 16 minutes. They should be golden brown on their tops and sides.

11. Step 11

    Serve immediately or within the hour. They will start to sink a bit after 15 minutes.