Crusty Dinner Rolls

Updated May 14, 2025

Crusty Dinner Rolls
Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Eleni Pappas.
Total Time
About 6 hours
Prep Time
5 minutes
Cook Time
5¾ hours
Rating
4(50)
Comments
Read comments

These hearty, lightly fermented rolls, made fresh every Tuesday to Saturday at Eulalie restaurant in New York City, are a joy to bake, and surprisingly easy. The chef Chip Smith starts the dough at 10 a.m. and bakes them by 5 p.m. to serve at dinner. All you need are a few brief moments of active work, plus time for the dough to rise three times for soft interiors — aided by the addition of cake flour — and a wonderful crust that blisters like a good baguette. —Eric Kim

Featured in: I Can’t Stop Thinking About These Dinner Rolls

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Ingredients

Yield:12 rolls
  • ½teaspoon/2 grams active dry yeast
  • 1⅓cups/300 grams warm water (100 to 110 degrees)
  • 2⅓cups/313 grams all-purpose flour
  • cups/200 grams cake flour or more all-purpose flour
  • 2teaspoons/10 grams coarse kosher salt or 1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
  • Nonstick cooking spray or vegetable oil
  • 1large egg
  • Softened butter, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (12 servings)

176 calories; 2 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 1 gram monounsaturated fat; 0 grams polyunsaturated fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 5 grams protein; 172 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, stir the yeast and water to combine. Add both flours and the salt. Mix on low speed until a shaggy ball forms, about 5 minutes. Scrape the dough off the hook, remove the hook and cover the bowl with a clean, damp kitchen towel. Let the dough rest to hydrate for 20 minutes.

  2. Step 2

    Uncover the dough, reattach the hook and knead on medium-low speed until smooth, elastic and no longer sticking to the sides of the bowl, 8 to 10 minutes, scraping the dough off the hook and sides of the bowl as needed.

  3. Step 3

    Lightly grease another large bowl with cooking spray or oil. Transfer the dough to the bowl. Cover with the towel, then with a sheet pan to keep the dough moist. Let proof in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

  4. Step 4

    Fold the dough in half over itself in the bowl a few times to deflate it slightly, then cover the bowl with the towel, then sheet pan, and let proof in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in size again, about 1½ hours.

  5. Step 5

    Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Scrape the dough out onto a clean work surface. Using a bench scraper or knife, portion the dough evenly into 12 (2-inch) pieces (each about 65 grams). To shape the dough into balls, think of your hand as a cage for the dough, so it can roll in place. Bend your fingers like a claw and cage a piece of dough by setting your claw over it and keeping the tips of your fingers and the edge of your hand against the work surface. Move your hand in a circular motion to roll the dough into a smooth, taut ball with a small belly button on the bottom. Place on the prepared pan. Repeat with the remaining pieces, spacing the balls 2 inches apart on the pan.

  6. Step 6

    Loosely cover the pan with greased plastic wrap and place in a warm, draft-free place, such as the oven. Be sure the heat is off. Proof one last time until doubled in size, 1 hour to 1½ hours.

  7. Step 7

    When ready to bake, take the pan out of the oven. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 450 degrees. In a small bowl, beat the egg with a splash of water to form an egg wash. Gently brush each dough ball with the egg wash. Lightly score the tops by slashing them with a single stroke of a sharp knife or blade.

  8. Step 8

    Bake the rolls until golden brown and the interiors reach at least 200 degrees, rotating the pan halfway through, about 20 minutes. Enjoy warm with butter.

Ratings

4 out of 5
50 user ratings
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Comments

@Cauliflower 105 g all purpose flour 14 g cornstarch for each cup of flour for those wondering

They will get crusty and then will soften after they cool. To re-crisp, heat the oven to 400F and put the rolls back in for just 3-4 minutes.

I learned how to bake bread in Adult Ed class when I was still in my twenties. Much older now. We did not have stand mixers at our disposal. All you need is a Pyrex bowl and a wooden spoon. Mix up the ingredients and knead by hand until the dough is elastic and tacky but not sticky. If too sticky gradually add a little flour. You’ll probably need about a good 15 minutes to knead by hand. Then, just follow the rest of the instructions. Great rolls, minimal cost.

I tried this recipe yesterday and it was worse than store bought rolls! Heavy and definitely not crusty! I should have listened to the other reviews and not wasted all day prepping the dough! Moving on…

Made exactly to recipe, except sprinkled tsp more water while kneading as so dry. Everyone agreed very tasty, but dense. I calculated the hydration % later and realized it was only 58.5%. Very dry. Baguettes (mentioned in the intro to the recipe) are usually between 70-75% hydration and even as high as 80%. I’ll make again using 73% water. Will also try subbing a little whole wheat for the all-purpose flour.

In the spirit of using what you have - I substituted spelt flour for the cake flour and added 20g of water. I did not use a mixer. I hate getting my hands sticky so I always knead dough in the bowl, using a sturdy spoon or scraper in a folding technique. The bread was very tasty. Probably not as fluffy as the original.

The hydration % of this recipe is too dry. Adding even more water will help make a better rise and softer crumb.

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