Cozonac (Walnut and Raisin Easter Bread)

Updated March 29, 2024

Cozonac (Walnut and Raisin Easter Bread)
Joel Goldberg for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
Total Time
1½ hours, plus 2½ hours proofing and cooling
Prep Time
5 minutes
Rating
4(139)
Comments
Read comments

In Romania, this festive sweet braided loaf, cozonac, is most commonly baked for Easter and Christmas. There are countless versions among families and across regions and this one, from Irina Georgescu’s “Tava: Eastern European Baking and Desserts From Romania and Beyond” (Hardie Grant, 2022) is swirled with a blend of walnuts and raisins bound by sweetened and beaten egg whites. Tender and delicately sweet, this loaf is perfumed with both orange zest and orange blossom water. According to Ms. Georgescu, cozonac has been connected to pre-Christian celebrations and its baking process is still considered superstitious by some. She recommends making the sign of the cross over the dough before letting it rise for luck. Even if you skip that step, your bread will turn out just fine as long as your yeast is fresh. —Genevieve Ko

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Ingredients

Yield:2 medium loaves

    For the Dough

    • cups/600 grams bread flour
    • teaspoons /14 grams fast-acting dry yeast (2 envelopes)
    • ¾cup/200 milliliters whole milk, warmed
    • 2large eggs, plus 2 large yolks (reserve whites for filling)
    • ¾cup/150 grams granulated sugar
    • 1tablespoon vanilla extract
    • ¾cup/150 grams sour cream, at room temperature
    • Grated zest of 1 large orange
    • 6tablespoons/80 grams unsalted butter, melted
    • Sunflower oil, for greasing

    For the Filling

    • cups/150 grams walnuts
    • cups/150 grams sultanas (light golden raisins)
    • 1tablespoon milk
    • 1tablespoon orange blossom water
    • 2large egg whites
    • cup/75 grams granulated sugar

    For the Glaze

    • 1large egg, beaten
Ingredient Substitution Guide
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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Combine the flour and yeast in a large bowl or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the warmed milk, then mix on low speed just until incorporated.

  2. Step 2

    In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and yolks with the sugar and vanilla until foamy, then whisk in the sour cream and orange zest. Add to the flour with the mixer running on low speed to incorporate, then beat on medium speed for 5 to 8 minutes, until thick strands of dough begin to separate. Start adding the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, incorporating well after each addition. At this stage, you can change to a dough hook or knead by hand until the dough is smooth and coming away from the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a greased bowl. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rest for 1½ hours in a warm place.

  3. Step 3

    Meanwhile, make the filling by blitzing the walnuts and sultanas together in a food processor. Add the milk and the orange blossom water and mix well. In a separate bowl, beat the reserved egg whites with the sugar to stiff peaks, then combine with the walnut mixture. Set aside.

  4. Step 4

    Grease and line two 4-by-8¼-inch loaf pans.

  5. Step 5

    Turn the dough onto a lightly oiled work surface, shape it into a log and divide it into 4 equal parts. Gently stretch and roll one part until it’s the length of the pan and double its width. Spread with a quarter of the filling mixture and roll it up into a log. Repeat with the second piece of dough, then twist them together, tucking the ends in, if necessary, and place in the pan. Repeat with the other pieces of dough and place in the second pan. Cover and leave to proof for 30 minutes in a warm place.

  6. Step 6

    Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350 degrees.

  7. Step 7

    Brush the breads with the beaten egg. Bake on the lower shelf of the oven for 20 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 325 degrees and bake for a further 30 minutes until an inserted skewer comes out clean. Cover the tops with foil if they turn too dark.

  8. Step 8

    Allow to cool in the pans, covered with a cloth, for 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely, still covered with a cloth.

Ratings

4 out of 5
139 user ratings
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Comments

The recipe left out salt, which should be 10 - 12 grams (0.02 x 600 = 12)

This may be Romanian, but I am sad that I never, ever see my heritage represented at Easter or Christmas. I am Carpathian—people across a wide swath of Central and Eastern Europe who are forgotten because they never had a homeland. Our Eastern tradition is a paska — an egg bread something like challah but denser, traditionally baked in round pans and elaborately decorated with a braided cross and other embellishments. Just once, I wish I’d see a national publication recognize my heritage.

I have not tried this version which incorporates sour cream in the dough. It sounds like a great idea, I will try it this Easter. For Romanians there’s no Easter without Cozonac, lamb and Easter painted eggs. There’s also no Christmas without the tree, Cozonac, Sarmale (pork cabbage rolls) and all the other pork trimmings (for us, pork is the best vegetable). Lately it’s also said there’s no Christmas until Hans Gruber falls from the Nakatomi tower, but the jury is still out on this one.

I made this bread (added salt!) and it came out very well, although not as beautiful as the photo. Used dried cherries instead of sultanas and orange juice instead of orange water. I found it hard to judge when the bread was done owing to the nature of the filling, but I think the time given was reasonably accurate. Next time, I'm going to try babka!

To the commenters who wrote about their Carpathian, Ruthenian, or Carpatho-Russyn backgrounds, I would suggest that your families all came from areas that are now within the territory of Ukraine. So if you want to find recipes that reflect your heritage, look for Paskas (or babkas) using Ukrainian recipes.

We made Ko's lemon blueberry muffins and love, love, loved them so decided to explore her other recipes. This Easter Bread looks great but we don't have orange blossom water and our tiny NYC kitchen storage is already spilling out into the hallway. Can we use orange zest or boil some peel? I checked the Internets and they were not helpful. Please?

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Credits

Adapted from “Tava: Eastern European Baking and Desserts From Romania and Beyond” (Hardie Grant, 2022) by Irina Georgescu

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