Dry-Brined Salmon

Updated Oct. 11, 2023

Dry-Brined Salmon
Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Maggie Ruggiero.
Total Time
15 minutes, plus at least 8 hours’ marinating
Prep Time
5 minutes
Cook Time
15 minutes, plus at least 8 hours’ marinating
Rating
4(830)
Comments
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Dry-brining salmon — that is, salting it and letting it rest overnight — has a number of noticeable effects on the fish once cooked. Dry-brined salmon will have a firmer, juicier bite that doesn’t become chalky even if you accidentally overcook it. Because salt can break down some proteins in the meat, you’ll find that dry-brined salmon does not leak out white coagulated albumin as it cooks. It will make the salmon virtually nonstick (even in a bare metal pan), and the skin comes out as crisp as a kettle chip. Perhaps most important, because the salmon releases less moisture as it cooks, it greatly reduces the amount of hot oil that spatters out of the pan.

Featured in: Kenji López-Alt’s Tips for Juicy, Crisp-Skinned Salmon? Add Salt and Wait.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • 4(5- to 7-ounce) skin-on salmon fillets (see Tip)
  • Salt
  • Whatever oil you cook with
  • Extra-virgin olive oil and lemon wedges, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

396 calories; 27 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 10 grams monounsaturated fat; 8 grams polyunsaturated fat; 0 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 35 grams protein; 410 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Line a plate or tray large enough to hold the fillets with a double layer of paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Season each fillet all over with ½ to 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt (about ¼ to ½ teaspoon table salt, or ⅓ to ⅔ teaspoon Morton kosher salt), aiming higher or lower, depending on your taste. Place the salmon fillets on the plate skin side up.

  2. Step 2

    Transfer the plate to the refrigerator (uncovered or covered loosely with foil) and let the salmon rest at least 8 hours and up to 2 days (see Tip). The salmon will feel dry after this step. Pat the fillets dry before cooking if any moisture remains.

  3. Step 3

    To cook under the broiler, skip to Step 5. To cook on the stovetop, use your hands to coat each salmon filllet with a thin film of oil on all sides. Heat a skillet large enough to hold the salmon fillets over medium-low for 2 minutes. Add fillets, skin side down, and cook, regularly pressing down on them for the first few minutes to make sure the skin stays flat and has good contact with the pan.

  4. Step 4

    Continue to cook, moving the fillets around the pan with a spatula and peeking at the skin occasionally, until the skin is brown and crisp, about 4 to 5 minutes total. (If the fillet doesn’t release, give it another 15 to 30 seconds and check again.) Flip the salmon and cook until as done as you like. (For medium-rare, an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the fish should register 100 to 105 degrees when you take it out of the pan. For well done, aim for 130 to 135 degrees in the pan.) Remove fish from the pan and let rest for 5 minutes, skin side up. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and a lemon wedge.

  5. Step 5

    To cook under the broiler, adjust a rack in your oven or toaster oven to about 6 inches below the broiler element. Heat the broiler to high. Rub a small amount of oil all over each salmon fillet and arrange skin side up on a rimmed baking sheet.

  6. Step 6

    For medium-rare salmon, broil until the skin is brown, crisp and charred in spots, about 4 to 5 minutes. (If you like your salmon more well done, increase the distance to the broiler element to 8 inches and cooking time to 7 to 8 minutes total.) Let salmon rest for 5 minutes, skin side up. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and a lemon wedge.

Tips
  • This technique will work with any type of salmon, but it can be most dramatic with leaner coho or sockeye salmon as opposed to fattier king. Although you’ll need a minimum of about 8 hours of salting to produce ideal results, salting the salmon even 30 to 45 minutes before cooking and carefully patting it dry with paper towels will improve it.
  • Many people have asked me if the method leaves the fridge smelling like fish. In my experience, it does not.

Ratings

4 out of 5
830 user ratings
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Comments

Good to see Kenji point out the difference between the different brands of Kosher Salt and Table Salt again. It's something that more people should know about because it greatly affects recipes and I find is a source of a lot of problems for people who follow recipes and think salt is salt. Table salt is shaped as little cubes, Morton's Kosher is big flat chunks, Diamond Crystal Kosher is big pyramids. For a given volume (ie a tablespoon), the shape affects how much fits. More = up to 2x saltier

Do you salt the skin side of the filets? Or do you salt the flesh side, and then turn them skin-side up? Directions aren’t clear.

I saw this procedure on Kenji's Instagram and tried it with frozen wild Sockeye fillets. I defrosted the fillets in the fridge the evening before, the next morning I patted them dry, salted both sides (ie, all over), and placed them on a paper towel-lined plate in the fridge uncovered until dinner. The result was perfectly crisp skin, no spatter, and deliciously moist salmon. I will not make pan-seared salmon any other way now. Thank you, Kenji!

I'm putting it in the fridge now but don't understand how some here say that it's way too salty and others that it's delicious. Should I rinse it before grilling it? Thanks.

This was so good! Confusingly good for the fact it’s simply salting and refrigerating. I’m not really a salmon fan. I don’t hate it, but let’s say I eat it because it’s good for me and I get lots of fresh for free. This was the yummiest salmon, way of making salmon, I’ve ever had! I did it pretty much as it says. Put paper towel in the bottom of a glass dish. Patted salmon dry. Ground sea salt all over it. Tin foil cover. Fridge for 24hrs. Removed paper towel. Rubbed olive oil all over. Put in oven, skin side up, on broil for 6ish mins. SO. GOOD.

This is absolutely my experience. I find the negative notes so perplexing. That's cooking for you, though - experiences differ.

This came out very good! It was a little salty but in a good way.

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