Salt-Rising Bread

Published Nov. 22, 2020

Salt-Rising Bread
Heami Lee for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.
Total Time
1¼ hours, plus at least 12 hours’ rising
Rating
4(430)
Comments
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Salt-rising bread is an American technique with deep roots: Home bakers who developed the bread in Appalachia didn’t have access to yeast, but found a way to bake without it when they noticed that their milk starters bubbled up overnight. It’s much easier and far more consistent to get a good rise with yeast — even bakers who make salt-rising bread regularly have failures with the finicky technique. But those who continue the tradition are rewarded with light, tender, airy crumbed bread that makes a particularly delicious toast. Be sure to maintain the starter at an even temperature, as directed, or it won’t take.

Featured in: Salt-Rising Bread: A Delicious and Nearly Lost Tradition

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Ingredients

Yield:1 (9-inch) loaf
  • ½cup/120 milliliters whole milk
  • 1tablespoon fine cornmeal
  • 4cups/510 grams all-purpose flour
  • teaspoon baking soda
  • 2tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for greasing the loaf tin
  • 1teaspoon kosher salt
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (1 servings)

1981 calories; 9 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 2 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 405 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams dietary fiber; 8 grams sugars; 58 grams protein; 1510 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium just until the edges start to bubble. Let the milk cool for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, set the cornmeal and 1 teaspoon flour in a medium bowl. Once the milk has cooled, pour it over the cornmeal mixture, and whisk it well. Cover with plastic wrap, and keep warm — 104 to 110 degrees — for about 8 hours. You could use a water bath, a crockpot or an oven that has been turned off, but if the starter isn’t consistently kept warm, it won’t take. When the top of the starter is foamy and it smells a little like cheese, it’s ready for Step 2.

  2. Step 2

    Using a wooden spoon, mix 1 cup/240 milliliters hot water with 1½ cups/190 grams flour and the baking soda, then add the starter to it, and mix well. Cover, and keep warm in the same way you did for Step 1, for 2 to 4 hours, until the dough is bubbly and has nearly doubled in size.

  3. Step 3

    Scrape into the bowl of a stand mixer. Using the beater attachment, with the speed on medium, add butter and salt, then add remaining flour in ½-cup increments — you may not need to add it all for the dough to come together. The dough should be smooth and a little soft and sticky after about 5 minutes of beating in the stand mixer on medium speed.

  4. Step 4

    Transfer dough to a buttered 9-inch loaf tin, cover again and let it rest somewhere warm in the pan for 2 to 3 hours, until the top is slightly puffed and rounded.

  5. Step 5

    Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Once the dough is ready, uncover it and bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the top is deeply golden and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped. Let cool completely in the pan before turning out and slicing.

Ratings

4 out of 5
430 user ratings
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Comments

HI Baker Brad, Acutally, there are enough resident bacteria on the surfaces of the cornmeal and flour. I also suggest using a couple tablespoons chickpea flour to help the fermentation. Just a secret from a pro.

There are two moments of potential failure that may necessitate restarting - the first at the end of step one and the second at the end of step two. The recipe on the King Arthur site describes what those failures look like and what you can do about them. It also is more specific and clearer about how to create a consistently warm space for the starter to ferment, and offers a few other helpful hints.

Oh lordy I love salt rising bread, as it does make the most extraordinary toast. Used to be able to buy it in many Southern bakeries but alas, no more. Wish some enterprising bakery would take it up again and sell online as the taste really is worth the trouble. I'll give this recipe a try. Had also heard that potatoes could be used to culture a starter. thanks NYT

Mama loved salt-rising bread so I bought it often for her from wonderful Rhodes Bakery in Atlanta (actually now in Roswell). Funnily enough, in the late 60's fabulous SRB was available from Van de Kamps commercial bakery from kiosks in regular grocery stores in southern California. That is how I was introduced to it as a teen as Mom and Dad bought it regularly. It is great toasted with butter and peanut butter on top!

I remember eating this type bread at my aunts I really like it!! Looked for it in grocery stores could not find it so was happy to see there’s a recipe for it thanks!!Going to give it a go wish me luck

I had a different recipe years ago where the starter was about double. You would take half the starter after you added more flour to make one loaf. This left you with starter to continue making bread. Y I u never used all thecstarter unless you wanted to stop making the wonderful bread. Does anyone know this old recipe as l would love to be able to make it again where you have starter left for the next time.

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Credits

Adapted from “Salt Rising Bread: Recipes and Heartfelt Stories of a Nearly Lost Appalachian Tradition” by Genevieve Bardwell and Susan Ray Brown (St. Lynn’s Press, 2016)

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