Larder’s Smoked Carrots With Roasted Yeast

Published Aug. 26, 2020

Larder’s Smoked Carrots With Roasted Yeast
Andrew Purcell for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Carrie Purcell.
Total Time
1¼ hours
Rating
4(53)
Comments
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Jeremy Umansky is a master meat curer from Cleveland, where he runs a new wave deli called Larder. New wave? The guy serves smoked carrots and burdock root “meat sticks” alongside house-cured pancetta, pastrami and bresaola. His passion for — and obsession with — koji, the miracle spore used by the Japanese to turn soybeans into soy sauce and miso, runs so deep, he not only gave a TED Talk on the topic, he wrote a whole book about it, “Koji Alchemy” (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2020). Most of his vegetable charcuterie involves a complex curing, smoking and aging process, plus fermentation with koji, but these carrots can be smoked from start to finish in about an hour. The roasted yeast rub gives them an otherworldly flavor that’s smoky, malty and absolutely unique. —Steven Raichlen

Featured in: Charcuterie With All of the Smoke but None of the Meat

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Ingredients

Yield:6 servings

    For the Smoked Carrots

    • Hardwood chunks or chips (Mr. Umansky uses shagbark hickory), for smoking (if using chips, soak them in water to cover for 30 minutes then drain)
    • 2pounds medium carrots, preferably organic or from your local farmers’ market

    For the Roasted Yeast Rub

    • ¼cup active dry yeast
    • 2teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
    • 1teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
    • 1teaspoon cumin seeds
    • 1teaspoon caraway seeds
    • 5juniper berries, lightly crushed with the side of a cleaver

    For Serving

    • 3tablespoons maple syrup (or to taste)
    • 3tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil
    • Sea salt
    • ¼cup chopped celery leaves for garnish (optional)
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

185 calories; 8 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 5 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams dietary fiber; 13 grams sugars; 5 grams protein; 429 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Set up your smoker following the manufacturer’s instructions and heat to 250 degrees. Alternatively, set up your charcoal grill for indirect grilling and heat to 250 degrees, using half the normal amount of charcoal (you need less charcoal to keep the heat low). Add the wood to the fire.

  2. Step 2

    Arrange the carrots on the grate away from the heat and smoke until pliable but still al dente, about 1 hour. To test for doneness, bend a carrot from the ends. The carrot is ready when you can bring the ends to within 2 inches of each other without the carrot breaking.

  3. Step 3

    While the carrots smoke, make the roasted yeast rub: Heat a dry cast-iron skillet over medium-low. Add the yeast, pepper, cocoa powder, cumin, caraway and juniper berries, and toast, shaking the pan frequently and stirring steadily with a wooden spoon to prevent scorching, until the yeast darkens a few shades to chestnut brown and the spices are fragrant, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a large but shallow mixing bowl and let cool.

  4. Step 4

    Add the hot smoked carrots to the yeast mixture and toss to coat. Stir in the maple syrup and oil and mix well. Add salt to taste. Let the carrots rest for 10 to 15 minutes to cool while absorbing the yeast and spice flavors.

  5. Step 5

    Sprinkle with the chopped celery leaves, if using, and serve at room temperature. Mr. Umansky recommends eating the carrots with your fingers.

Ratings

4 out of 5
53 user ratings
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Comments

Just to clarify, this really calls for active yeast and not nutritional yeast?

You had me at “smoked carrots”! Cut them in roughly 3” pieces and cut the thick pieces in half lengthwise. Smoked over dried orange peels in a stovetop smoker. Served with tahini sauce and drizzled with the pan drippings. Possibly never cooking carrots any other way again.

correct. Active yeast.

Made this last week to serve with brisket. In for a penny in for a pound. I ended up smoking the carrots until the smoke level tasted good and then finished up in the microwave. Guests thought there was way too much pepper, so will reduce by half next time. There will be a next time.

The carrots are done when you pull one of the smoker/grill and it tastes cooked. I pulled mine off when I could bend them into a U and am now microwaving them to see if I can salvage something. The rub is good, but I really hate these carrots. Giving this a 2 star for the creative yeast rub.

Actually, these were better the next day at room temp, especially the skinny ones (the thicker ones are still unpleasant to eat). Not sure I'm making this again, but I'm re-rating at 4.

Could the active dry yeast be substituted for instant yeast?

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Credits

Adapted from Jeremy Umansky, Larder, Cleveland

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