Black-Eyed Pea and Pork Gumbo

Black-Eyed Pea and Pork Gumbo
Sara Essex Bradley for The New York Times
Total Time
1½ hours
Rating
4(258)
Comments
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The chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski serve this gumbo regularly at Cochon, their Cajun-Southern restaurant in New Orleans. Its ingredients depart significantly from traditional New Orleans restaurant gumbos, which almost never feature pork, legumes or greens, although those norms have changed in recent years, in part due to Cochon’s influence. As a rule, when seasoning gumbo, Mr. Link uses just 75 percent of the suggested spice portions at first, then adds the rest as desired according to taste. Since this recipe can produce varying results, depending on whether you’re using smoked pork butt from a local barbecue joint or a store-bought variety, home-cooked black-eyed peas or canned, braised collards or mustard greens, Mr. Link’s seasoning approach is particularly useful. —Brett Anderson

Featured in: Gumbo, the Classic New Orleans Dish, Is Dead. Long Live Gumbo.

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Ingredients

Yield:6 to 8 servings

    For the Roux

    • ¾cup peanut or vegetable oil
    • ¾cup all-purpose flour

    For the Gumbo

    • 1cup diced white or yellow onion
    • ½cup diced green bell pepper
    • ½cup diced celery
    • 2tablespoons chopped garlic
    • 3quarts pork or chicken stock, plus more as needed
    • 1tablespoon gumbo filé powder
    • 1tablespoon ground black pepper
    • teaspoons ground white pepper
    • teaspoons dried thyme
    • teaspoons chile powder
    • teaspoons sweet paprika
    • teaspoons ground cayenne
    • 2bay leaves
    • 1tablespoon lard or olive oil
    • ¾pound okra, sliced into ½-inch rounds
    • 1cup homemade or store-bought cooked and drained black-eyed peas
    • 1cup braised collard or mustard greens
    • pounds homemade or store-bought smoked pork butt or shoulder, chopped
    • Kosher salt
    • Steamed rice or potato salad, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

595 calories; 37 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 22 grams monounsaturated fat; 6 grams polyunsaturated fat; 41 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams dietary fiber; 8 grams sugars; 26 grams protein; 1395 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. For the Roux

    1. Step 1

      In a large pot, heat the peanut or vegetable oil over medium-high. Slowly whisk in the flour and continue whisking until the roux turns dark red and begins to turn brown, 15 to 20 minutes.

  2. For the Gumbo

    1. Step 2

      Add the onion, bell pepper, celery and garlic to the roux and cook, stirring, until vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Add the stock, dried spices and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Simmer over medium-low, skimming occasionally, until flavors meld, at least 45 minutes.

    2. Step 3

      In a large nonstick skillet, heat the lard or olive oil over medium-high. Add the okra and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

    3. Step 4

      Taste the gumbo: It should not be pasty or taste overwhelmingly of the roux. If it does, you may need to add more stock, up to 4 cups. (The strength of starch in the flour can vary.) If you add more stock, start with just a cup, simmer and stir for a few minutes, and taste the gumbo again. Repeat as needed.

    4. Step 5

      Stir the okra, black-eyed peas, greens and pork into the gumbo. Return to a simmer, season with salt and pepper and adjust the spices, if necessary. Serve over steamed rice or potato salad.

Ratings

4 out of 5
258 user ratings
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Comments

I make a variation on this, but I prefer swiss chard to the collards. And since we like our gumbo heavy on vegetables, I increase the celery and peppers to a cup each minimum and I use much less pork...sometimes I just add sliced pan seared andouille at the end for a pop of flavor. Or I leave out the pork and top with crisped crumbled prosciutto for a lighter version. No file, not with the okra.

Sure! Gumbo Z'Herbes... a mess of greens in a roux, pretty darn good. And basically a gumbo is a stew made with a thickener, be it a roux, file, or okra, or a combination (I like a chocolate-brown roux and okra). Then add whatever you'd put in a veggie stew. How about sweet potatoes, peppers, maybe some black beans or even chickpeas? Use your imagination!

Yes! Deborah Madison has an excellent red bean gumbo with greens in her “Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone” cookbook. It’s absoluetly delicious and even non-vegetarians will enjoy it.

I come from a Louisiana Creole family, and most published recipes seem to call for an excessive amount of roux. Consider cutting it down. Too much and it will taste dirty and claggy. Also filé powder, if using, should be added only once the gumbo is cooked, and to the individual bowl. And normally, a gumbo wouldn't require okra and filé, since both are thickeners.

Made again too starchy. Use 2/3 recipe for proper amt of roux

While I was excited by this recipe, just didn’t work for me… felt like I wasted a lot of pulled pork, my braised collards have a sweetness, that didn’t work with this. While I’ve been to Cochon, and like their food… won’t be making this recipe again.

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Credits

Adapted from Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski, Cochon, New Orleans

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