Salt Cod, Potato and Chickpea Stew

- Total Time
- 1 hour 30 minutes, plus overnight soaking
- Rating
- Comments
- Read comments
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Ingredients
- 1pound boneless salt cod fillets
- 1pound dried chickpeas
- 1small onion, halved and stuck with 2 cloves
- 1bay leaf
- Salt and pepper
- 4tablespoons olive oil
- 1large onion, diced
- 2teaspoons chopped garlic
- Pinch of crumbled saffron
- 2teaspoons pimentón (smoked paprika)
- 2tablespoons tomato paste
- ½cup dry white wine
- 1½pounds yellow-fleshed potatoes, such as Yukon Gold, peeled and cut in thick wedges
- 12littleneck clams, about 1 pound
- 2cups roughly chopped cilantro
Preparation
- Step 1
Rinse salt cod, then place in a bowl of cold water and soak for 8 hours or overnight. Change water every 2 hours if possible. (If desired, fully soaked cod may be refrigerated, drained and wrapped in plastic for up to 2 days.) Also put chickpeas in a bowl and cover with cold water by 2 inches. Leave to soak 8 hours or overnight.
- Step 2
The next day, drain cod, chop it into 1-inch chunks, put it in a bowl and set aside. Put chickpeas and soaking water in a large pot over high heat. Add clove-stuck onion and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Skim foam, turn down heat and simmer for about 45 minutes, until tender. Halfway through cooking, add 2 teaspoons salt. Turn off heat and leave chickpeas in their broth until ready to use. (Chickpeas may be cooked several hours ahead or even a day in advance if desired.)
- Step 3
Make the stew: In a heavy soup pot, warm olive oil over high heat. Add diced onion and let sizzle, then reduce heat and cook until softened, stirring, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic, saffron, pimentón and tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes. Season mixture with salt and pepper. Add wine and bring to a brisk simmer. Drain chickpeas, reserving 6 cups of the broth. Add the broth and potatoes to the pot, cover and cook until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.
- Step 4
Ladle about 2 cups of the stew’s liquid over the salt cod pieces and let steep for 10 minutes (the fish will cook while steeping), then pour this mixture into the pot. Add the clams and reserved chickpeas to the pot and simmer, covered, until clams open, 5 to 7 minutes. To serve, stir in the cilantro and ladle the stew into big bowls.
- This complex dish requires a versatile wine. The funky, earthy flavor of chickpeas pairs well with reds, while the fish and clams suggest whites. Potatoes can go either way. I might start with a dry rosé, possibly Provençal as Spanish rosés are frequently bigger and fruitier. Dry Iberian whites will go well too, like godellos from Valdeorras and possibly even white Riojas. But I think with the chickpeas, the smoky pimento and the touch of tomato, I might opt for a red as long as it’s not too tannic, oaky and fruity. How about an inexpensive Portuguese red from the Douro or Alentejo, or possibly a mencía from the Galician region of Ribeira Sacra? I’d be tempted to experiment with Austrian blaufränkisch. The final word goes to fino sherry, which just might be ideal. ERIC ASIMOV
Private Notes
Comments
"Modern" salt cod is not as hard and salty as the traditional plank-hard type was. The cook must match soaking times and water changes to the cod at hand. Follow the recipe; but touch and taste the cod as it desalts. Stop while there is texture and "funk" to it.
A perhaps apocryphal tale/cooking tip: In the old days, restaurants and guest houses would soak salt cod in their toilet's tanks; thus insuring frequent and automatic changes of water.
Great recipe, but I had to make some changes to appease the masses in the household. I love the flavor of chickpeas, but not a fan of the consistency. I also thought that it would be too thin if I followed the recipe. I ended up pureeing half the chickpeas in the broth and reserved the remaining chickpeas for addition per the recipe. No one in the family but me likes bacala so I used fresh cod and cooked it along with the clams. I also added Spanish chorizo and dry sherry in place of wine.
This was delicious. I used whole small, new yellow potatoes rather than larger Yukon Golds. Next time I might use 1 t. of pimentón (it's very forward and you have to love this), and definitely more clams. I held back some chick peas to make hummus; 1 pound of dry chick peas is a lot of chick peas. And about the chick peas -- 45 minutes is not enough time. Soak these overnight and start cooking early; keep checking.
We enjoyed a 2014 godello with this, thank you Mr. Asimov!
I liked the overall recipe but i thought that some of the proportions were kind of strange.. just way too many chickpeas for me but then again I've never had iberian salt cod stew so maybe that is how it's supposed to be?
This is A LOT of soup. More like 6-8 servings. If just for you and Isaac then halve everything except for the bacalao. I also added more tomato paste, like 3 tablespoons or more, to cut the pimentón flavor for Isaac.
This is indeed one heck of a lot of chickpeas. Maybe 1 cup was intended? Great dish either way. I subbed mussels for the clams, which worked out fine.
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