Billi Bi

Updated Feb. 29, 2024

Billi Bi
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Total Time
50 minutes
Rating
5(841)
Comments
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Craig Claiborne, who brought this amazing cream of mussels soup to The Times in the 1960s and refined it over the years with his longtime kitchen collaborator Pierre Franey, once called it "the most elegant and delicious soup ever created." It is also one of the easiest to make. Use wine to steam open some mussels beneath a blanket of aromatics and use the resulting stock as a base for cream. Add the mussels and perhaps a grind of pepper. "One of the sublime creations on Earth," Claiborne wrote.

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Featured in: Craig Claiborne’s Classic Billi Bi

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings as an entree, 8 as an appetizer
  • 2pounds mussels
  • 2shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped
  • 2small white onions, peeled and quartered
  • 2sprigs parsley, plus chopped parsley for garnish
  • Kosher salt
  • Pepper, to taste
  • Pinch cayenne pepper
  • 1cup dry white wine, like pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc
  • 2tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
  • 1bay leaf
  • 2sprigs fresh thyme
  • 2cups heavy cream
  • 1egg yolk, lightly beaten
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

752 calories; 55 grams fat; 32 grams saturated fat; 1 gram trans fat; 14 grams monounsaturated fat; 4 grams polyunsaturated fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 7 grams sugars; 33 grams protein; 1135 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Scrub mussels well to remove dirt and, if necessary, remove beards.

  2. Step 2

    Place mussels in large saucepan or Dutch oven and add shallots, onions, parsley, salt, pepper, cayenne, wine, butter, bay leaf and thyme. Cover and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat and simmer 8 to 10 minutes, or until mussels have opened. Discard any that have not opened.

  3. Step 3

    Strain liquid through a colander lined with cheesecloth and reserve; this is the base for the soup.

  4. Step 4

    When cool enough to handle, remove mussels from shells and reserve. Discard shells and aromatics.

  5. Step 5

    Bring reserved liquid to a low boil in a small saucepan. Add cream and return mixture almost to a boil, then remove from heat. Let cool slightly then add egg yolk and stir to combine. Return saucepan to heat and let thicken slightly. (Do not boil.)

  6. Step 6

    Taste and adjust seasoning. To serve, arrange mussels in center of large soup dishes and spoon liquid over them. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

Ratings

5 out of 5
841 user ratings
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Comments

Though I sometimes think mussels were more flavorful before they were farmed, this soup is as extraordinarily rich and sublime as I remember from Claiborne's day.

But if you really try to divide it among 8 people you will have open warfare at the table.

I love this recipe and have made it for years - the original (pre-Claiborne) dates to 1925 and comes from Chez Maxim's in Paris and is the creation of chef Louis Barthe when he was at Ciro's in Deauville. It is named for his customer William Brand and was originally called Potage Billy Brand, then shorten to Billy By (not Bi) and is only the mussel broth - no mussels actually in the soup. The full story appears in the 1962 book, Chez Maxim's.

Oh my god. Perfectly cooked mussels in a mostly mussel extract, heavy cream, butter, wine, and aromatic vegetable soup. Unhealthy and delicious. I've decided one time a year probably won't decrease my lifespan significantly. And if it does, c'est la vie.

This soup is so amazing . One thing I will do differently when I make it again is to not scrub the muscles too much. a friend helping me just scrubbed away at the muscles. I think you just need to get rid of all the dirt and what you can of the beard and let a few limpids or even barnacles stay on the muscles. It adds to the flavor of the liquid in which the muscles are cooked.

Can you use frozen mussel meat instead of mussels in the shell?

Yes. I do. Even cooked frozen mussels just don't cook them too long and add them in nearer the end before you add the cream and egg yolk.

I rendered down some bacon and used the oil in addition to the butter. Then topped it off with the bacon bits. Nice smokey/salty addition. When the comments say the original recipe is unhealthy, double down.

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