Old Man’s Hash

In December 1982, the theologian and food writer Robert Farrar Capon argued in The Times that the traditional Swedish smorgasbord — complete with plenty of herring and anchovies — should replace the “the cocktail party as the paradigm of Christmas celebration: this is not a holiday that should be commemorated by standing on one foot and munching stuffed mushrooms, crudites and miniature quiches.” Old man's hash, or gubbrora in Swedish, is a simple dish made by stirring together sautéed onions, hard-boiled eggs, Swedish anchovy fillets and heavy cream. Swedish anchovies, or sprats, are different than their Mediterranean counterparts, so seek them out for a more authentic experience.