Moussaka

Moussaka
Jim Wilson/The New York Times
Total Time
4 hours
Rating
4(670)
Comments
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This recipe for moussaka is adapted from one found in David Rosengarten's book “Taste” which includes an entire section devoted to the classic Greek casserole. In the book, Mr. Rosengarten claims that his is “the lightest, least oily, least tomatoey, most eggplanty, most refined moussaka that you've ever tasted.” Isn't that just what you want as you plan a dinner party? Mr. Rosengarten writes with bravado, but he certainly persuaded me to try his recipe. And it delivered. —Amanda Hesser

Featured in: In a World Of Cuisine, A Longing For Food

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Ingredients

Yield:15 servings
  • 4large eggplants, about 1½ pounds each
  • 6tablespoons Greek olive oil, plus a little for coating the eggplants
  • Kosher salt, to taste
  • 4medium onions, chopped
  • 6garlic cloves, chopped
  • 128-ounce can crushed tomatoes in tomato puree
  • ¼cup parsley, minced
  • 2teaspoons dried oregano
  • ½teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 2tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 2pounds ground lamb
  • ½cups dry white wine
  • Black pepper to taste
  • 4pinches freshly grated nutmeg
  • 6tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 4tablespoons flour
  • 2cups hot, scalded milk
  • White pepper, to taste
  • 4eggs
  • 10tablespoons fresh bread crumbs
  • 1cup grated kefalotyri cheese or pecorino Romano
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (15 servings)

436 calories; 29 grams fat; 12 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 13 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 24 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams dietary fiber; 12 grams sugars; 20 grams protein; 1033 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Prick eggplants several times with a fork. Rub a little olive oil into their skins. On a large baking sheet, roast eggplants until soft, about 30 minutes, turning frequently. Remove from oven and let cool. Cut into ½-inch-thick round slices.

  2. Step 2

    In a saute pan, heat 4 tablespoons olive oil over high heat and brown eggplant slices lightly on each side. Do this in batches, adding more oil as necessary. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt. Set aside.

  3. Make Tomato Sauce

    1. Step 3

      In a saucepan heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Add 1 chopped onion and 2 chopped garlic cloves, and saute until tender. Add tomatoes and their puree, squeezing them into coarse chunks. Add parsley, oregano, cinnamon and vinegar. Stir well. Simmer, uncovered, for 25 minutes. Reserve.

  4. Prepare Lamb

    1. Step 4

      In a large saute pan, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-high heat. Add remaining onions and garlic. Saute for 5 minutes. Add lamb, in stages if necessary, and brown well, breaking up pieces with a wooden spoon. Add wine and bring to a boil. Cook until wine has nearly evaporated. 5. Season lamb with salt, black pepper and 2 pinches of nutmeg. Stir in 1 cup of reserved tomato sauce. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour.

  5. Prepare Bechamel

    1. Step 5

      In a large saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over medium-low heat, and gradually whisk in flour. Cook for 2 minutes, whisking constantly. Do not let this brown. Add hot milk and whisk rapidly to combine. Bring to a slow boil, whisking constantly. Reduce heat and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring frequently, until smooth and thickened. Season with salt, white pepper and remaining 2 pinches nutmeg. Let cool slightly.

    2. Step 6

      In a mixing bowl, beat eggs and whisk in a spoonful of bechamel. Whisk in remaining bechamel in a thin stream, and adjust seasoning.

    3. Step 7

      Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Assemble moussaka: Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of bread crumbs across the bottom of a large baking dish (18-by-8-by-3 inches) and cover crumbs evenly with half the eggplant slices. Drain as much oil from lamb mixture as possible, and spread the meat over the eggplant layer. Top meat with half the cheese, then with half the remaining bread crumbs. Place remaining eggplant slices on top of the bread crumbs, then add the bechamel, remaining cheese and remaining bread crumbs in even layers. Dot with remaining butter.

    4. Step 8

      Bake for 45 minutes, until well browned. Remove from oven and let cool slightly, about 15 minutes. Cut into 3-inch squares to serve. Serve with the extra tomato sauce.

Ratings

4 out of 5
670 user ratings
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Comments

Very good flavor. I increased the garlic and used rice flour. Next time will double the bechamel and use 1 1/2 times the cheese, and will cut the eggplant in thicker slices - maybe 3/4 inch or slightly thicker. (I salted and rinsed the eggplant, sliced it, put it on a cookie sheet greased with olive oil, brushed it with olive oil, and then roasted it for about 30 minutes instead of baking and then frying.)

I fail to see how it can be "least oily" if the eggplant slices are browned in olive oil. Eggplant soaks up oil like a sponge. Instead, I recommend slicing uncooked eggplant, placing the slices on a broiler pan in batches, and brushing the tops lightly with oil. Broil close to the heat source until brown, flip, and broil again without any additional oil on the second side. And definitely more Bechamel.

Addendum—Perhaps because my mother’s family is Greek, I find the seasonings in the recipe wise guidance, but ultimately wimpy. Part of the magic of moussaka is that it takes traditionally “sweet” spices—cinnamon and nutmeg —and pairs them with savory spices (garlic and oregano), for an amazing sensory experience. I hold the savory spices (garlic and oregano) as recommended, but basically double or triple the cinnamon and nutmeg. Taste along the way, but the sweet spices add magic.

Found a lot of unnecessary steps in this recipe such as preroasting the eggplant, which softens and collapses them, and then slicing and sautéing them in a pan, or scalding the milk, which is so not necessary if added slowly to the egg mix, or cooking the lamb mixture for a whole hour before the whole assembled moussaka goes in the oven for another 45 minutes.

Thank you “Middleton “ for time-saving tip on lightly brushed thick eggplant slices. I also increased cinnamon in the sauce (occasionally I’ll add cinnamon sticks for an hours simmering to mo my sauces. Used Feta vs Parmesan cheese in the layering of the classic Greek Payless lasagna. Served over rigatoni or mostaciolli. Big hit with the family!.

I esp. appreciated the comment about doubling the "sweet" spices (nutmeg & cinnamon). I did this & loved it! I also roasted cubes of eggplant, as another cook suggested, and thought this was a GREAT idea. Love NYT Cooking!!

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Credits

Adapted from "Taste," by David Rosengarten (Random House, 1998)

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