Porcini Ragù

Updated Feb. 26, 2025

Porcini Ragù
Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Heather Greene.
Total Time
45 minutes
Prep Time
10 minutes
Cook Time
35 minutes
Rating
5(1,292)
Comments
Read comments

As a child living in Tuscany, Ixta Belfrage fell for a pasta rich with dried porcini mushrooms, served at the lone restaurant in the tiny mountain village of Acone. In her cookbook, “Mezcla” (Ten Speed Press, 2022), she pays homage to the power of porcini mushrooms, which are typically gathered from the wild and taste of it, luscious and nutty. They offer a shortcut to glory in this ragù that almost defies the name, because it doesn’t demand hours on the stove and attains a velvety intensity in practically no time at all. Leave the porcini to soak and swell back to life; chop; gently fry with tomato paste, garlic, chile and parsley; rain down black pepper; melt in some Parmesan; swirl with pasta water and porcini broth and let it bubble. A dab of cream, then a slicking and coating of the pasta, and it’s on the table. —Ligaya Mishan

Featured in: This Quick Vegetarian Ragù Is a Shortcut to Glory

  • or to save this recipe.

  • Subscriber benefit: give recipes to anyone
    As a subscriber, you have 10 gift recipes to give each month. Anyone can view them - even nonsubscribers. Learn more.
    Subscribe
  • Print Options


Advertisement


Ingredients

Yield:2 to 4 servings
  • ounces/40 grams dried porcini mushrooms
  • Boiling water, for soaking the porcini
  • Fine salt and black pepper
  • ¼cup olive oil, plus more for serving
  • 3garlic cloves, very finely chopped
  • ½teaspoon crushed red pepper (or less, if you prefer)
  • ½cup finely chopped fresh parsley stems and leaves, plus more for serving
  • 1½ tablespoons tomato paste
  • About 9 ounces/250 grams dried tagliatelle nests
  • ounces Parmesan, very finely grated (about ¾ cup, loosely packed), plus more for serving
  • 3tablespoons heavy cream
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Cooking Newsletter illustration

Opt out or contact us anytime. See our Privacy Policy.

Opt out or contact us anytime. See our Privacy Policy.

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a medium bowl, cover the mushrooms with boiling water and let soak for 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 5 tablespoons of the soaking liquid. Very finely chop the mushrooms, aiming to mimic the consistency of ground meat, then set aside. Heat a medium pot of salted water to a boil.

  2. Step 2

    Put the oil, garlic, crushed red pepper, parsley and heaping ¼ teaspoon salt into a cold, large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Very gently fry for 5 minutes until soft and lightly golden, turning the heat down if the garlic starts to brown.

  3. Step 3

    Increase the heat to medium-high, then add the chopped mushrooms, tomato paste and plenty of freshly ground black pepper (about 50 twists, 1 to 1½ teaspoons). Stir-fry for 3 minutes, then set the pan aside while you boil the pasta.

  4. Step 4

    Cook the pasta in the salted boiling water according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1¾ cups of the pasta water.

  5. Step 5

    Return the sauté pan with the mushroom mixture to medium-high heat, then stir in 1½ cups of the reserved pasta water plus the reserved porcini soaking liquid. Bring to a simmer. Once simmering, let it bubble away for 3 minutes.

  6. Step 6

    Add half the Parmesan, stirring until it has melted before adding the rest. Lower the heat to medium, then stir in the cream, followed by the drained tagliatelle. Toss over the heat until the pasta and sauce have emulsified, 1 to 2 minutes, adding a splash more pasta water if the pasta looks dry.

  7. Step 7

    Remove from the heat and serve at once, finished with as much olive oil and Parmesan as your heart desires, plus a sprinkling of parsley.

Ratings

5 out of 5
1,292 user ratings
Your rating

or to rate this recipe.

Have you cooked this?

or to mark this recipe as cooked.

Private Notes

Leave a Private Comment on this recipe and see it here.

Comments

We substituted salt with 4 anchovies. Boy was that a power move You won’t be sorry

Soak the porcini when put the pasta water on the stove to boil. Cuts down on total cooking time. Also consider doubling this or sauteeing additional mushrooms because it’s ridiculous delicious! Our whole family, kids included, were scraping the pan! This is a “Top 10” 2025 recipe for me!

Add a hit of lemon at the end and it's perfect!

Made this last night. Doubled the mushrooms. Lease do yourself a favor amd don’t double the mushrooms! I like mushrooms as much as anyone but they completely took over in an overpowering way. That said, my wife liked it but nowhere near her usual reaction to nyt rec

I've made this twice now. Once with fresh black trumpets and once with fresh Shitakes and King Oyster mushroom shredded. Came out fantastic both times.

My first reaction was, why use so little of the mushroom soaking liquid? That is liquid umami! I had 2 cups of it and used a bit more than 1 1/2 cups (filtered of course). I also liked the substitution of anchovies for the salt. I use both of those with my regular bolognese for a umami boost. Great meal, look forward having it again.

Private comments are only visible to you.

Credits

Adapted from “Mezcla” by Ixta Belfrage (Ten Speed Press, 2022)

Advertisement

or to save this recipe.