Cheese Puff

Published Dec. 19, 2024

Cheese Puff
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
1¼ hours
Prep Time
15 minutes
Cook Time
1 hour
Rating
4(162)
Comments
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Cheese puff is a scene-stealing side dish in which gooey grilled cheese meets cloudlike soufflé, defining itself as the ultimate comfort food. White bread, salted butter and cheese get bound together by a simple egg-and-milk mixture that coalesces these humble ingredients into a savory bread pudding. Stale bread works best for this recipe, as it absorbs the milk mixture better, but if you’re using fresh sandwich bread, simply dry it out in a low oven for about 10 minutes until stale to the touch (but not browned). Don’t be alarmed if your cheese puff deflates when you take it from the oven, as it’s normal and makes for a more custardy bite. While sharp Cheddar is a key component, any mix of firm, well-melting cheese, such as Gruyère, Gouda or provolone, will work nicely. 

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Ingredients

Yield:8 servings
  • 2cups/480 milliliters whole milk
  • 2large eggs
  • ½teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
  • ½teaspoon ground black pepper
  • ¼teaspoon ground cayenne 
  • teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 6tablespoons/85 grams salted butter, softened, plus more for greasing the dish
  • 6slices of stale white sandwich bread (see Tip, if using fresh bread)
  • 1(12-ounce) block sharp Cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

363 calories; 27 grams fat; 15 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 7 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 5 grams sugars; 16 grams protein; 493 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, mix together the milk, eggs, salt, pepper, cayenne and nutmeg; set aside.

  2. Step 2

    Butter a 2½-quart round casserole dish or 8-inch round cake pan, place on a baking sheet and set aside.

  3. Step 3

    Butter both sides of each slice of bread. Lay the first 2 slices down flat in the dish and cover the slices completely with about one third of the grated cheddar. Layer the next 2 slices of bread on top and repeat with half the remaining cheese. Cut the last 2 slices of bread in half crosswise. Fit 2 pieces of bread on either side of the stacked slices, cut-sides down, and fill any gaps with the remaining cheese.

  4. Step 4

    Pour about half of the milk mixture over the bread and cheese and let sit for about a minute, so that it begins to soak in, then pour the remaining mixture on top. Use the back of a spoon or your hands to press the top of the bread and cheese to ensure everything is completely saturated and the surface is even, just below the rim of the dish.

  5. Step 5

    Place the dish on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the top is toasty and puffed, about 1 hour.

  6. Step 6

    Let cool for about 10 minutes before enjoying warm. (It may deflate and that’s OK!)

Tip
  • If bread is not stale, heat the oven to 200 degrees. Place the slices of bread on a baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes until slightly dried out, but not golden. Let cool for about 10 minutes, and increase the oven temperature to 350 degrees to begin at Step 1.

Ratings

4 out of 5
162 user ratings
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Comments

Diamond and Morton use different processes in creating crystals — this affects texture and perceived saltiness. Diamond grows theirs in open brine creating delicate crystals that are light in flavor because their pyramid shape allows more air between each crystal. Morton's crystals are larger and taste saltier because they form crystals w/vacuum-evaporation then flatten them under rollers, making a more dense shape that's about 25% saltier that Diamond. Use either, but be careful w/measurements.

My family calls this "cheese flop" because it always does. We cut the bread into small chunks. It can be dressed up with anything: Mushrooms, ham, broccoli, whatever's in the fridge. Dot the top with butter. Many years ago I taught a Peace Corps friend in Russia how to make it and he tried to feed it to his wife nearly every night. Made her hate me.

My English mother made this as a staple for dinner in the 70s. She called it cheese pudding, and served it with fresh tomatoes blended up to a puree. The fresh tomatoes cool the very hot cheese pudding and make a nice complement to the flavors. (Think grilled cheese with tomato soup, only fresher tasting.)

I made this for a birthday brunch on request. I couldn’t find a decent sandwich loaf that wasn’t sliced so used an Italian loaf. Used a deep 8” cake pan which worked well. I grated 12oz of sharp cheddar but didn’t use about 2oz of it as it seemed like too much. I also buttered lightly on both sides (didn’t measure just used from butter dish). When it came out of the oven it looked oily but after resting it was reabsorbed. Delicious! I love the combo of crispy edges and soft middle.

This turned out really well, but like an another commenter, I found the wonder bread texture a bit off-putting. Too gooey/smooshy for me, but my friends both loved it! I definitely would try this again with a sourdough bread, maybe roughly torn up. I also like the idea of adding bit of sautéed veggies or meat into it. I’m thinking this would also be a good way to use up the dregs from a cheese and charcuterie board after a party. The dried up leftover baguette slices, various mystery cheeses, some chopped up charcuterie and olives, some fresh herbs if you have it, the custard with more cheese (if you don’t have enough) - voila, easy day-after dinner. You could even throw some of the leftover Dijon into the custard.

I used basic off-the-shelf wonder-type bread, and despite being several weeks old it wasn't really stale. The resulting texture was very off-putting. It was like bread soaked in water, almost runny. I don't know what the texture is supposed to be like, but perhaps a denser bread or one without preservatives, one that was truly stale, would have worked better. Also, it was swimming in butter and oil from the cheese when I served it, so I would recommend buttering the bread sparingly.

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