Phở Bò Miền Nam (Beef Phở)

Published Nov. 20, 2024

Phở Bò Miền Nam (Beef Phở)
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
9½ hours
Prep Time
15 minutes
Cook Time
9¼ hours
Rating
4(35)
Comments
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A soothing, restorative bowl of beef phở, the national dish of Vietnam, is defined by the quality of the broth, according to Thuy Diem Pham, chef and owner of The Little Viet Kitchen in London. Regionality and geography distinguishes various styles of phở. According to Ms. Pham, in the cooler climate of northern Vietnam, phở is saltier, and to keep the broth hot, it is mainly topped with just sliced onion. In the south, “the broth is sweeter and because of the hotter climate, tons of herbs are thrown in to cool down the broth.” This recipe, adapted from Ms. Pham’s cookbook, “The Little Viet Kitchen” (Absolute Press, 2019), is in the southern style which is where her family is from. Ideally, the broth should be light and clear like chicken broth, not murky and dark. To achieve the telltale golden broth, beef bones, oxtail and ribs are first soaked, then parboiled, and finally gently simmered along with brisket, spices and aromatics for many hours. This is a slow, luxurious project, best taken up over a couple of days. Most of the work is hands off, as the broth very slowly simmers away. This recipe makes a big batch which will set you up with bowls of phở at your disposal. You can also use the leftover broth as a base for other soups, and the meat for stir-fries, tacos or over rice. All ingredients can be found at Asian markets. —Naz Deravian

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Ingredients

Yield:10 servings

    For the Meat, Bones and Broth

    • 2lemons, scrubbed and halved
    • 4pounds/1.8 kilograms beef marrow bones, cut into 3-inch long pieces, or combination marrow and knuckle (see Tip)
    • 3pounds/1.3 kilograms boneless brisket, cut into thirds if a large piece
    • 1pound/450 grams oxtail
    • 1pound/450 grams beef short ribs
    • 8tablespoons fine sea salt, plus more as needed
    • 1pound/450 grams daikon, peeled and cut into 4-inch lengths
    • 200grams yellow rock sugar, or 3 tablespoons granulated sugar, plus more as needed
    • 2tablespoons fish sauce, plus more as needed

    For the Onion and Ginger

    • 3large yellow onions, skins on
    • 7ounces/200 grams fresh ginger, unpeeled

    For the Spices

    • 10pods/10 grams star anise
    • 3pods/10 grams Chinese cardamom, or 5 Indian black cardamom pods, lightly crushed, seeds only
    • 1thick 3-inch cinnamon stick
    • Scant 1 tablespoon/5 grams whole cloves
    • 3teaspoons/5 grams coriander seeds
    • 2teaspoons/2 grams fennel seeds

    To Serve

    • 1pound/450 grams dried phở noodles, small or medium size (see Tip)
    • 5ounces/150 grams bean sprouts, rinsed
    • 1pound/450 grams thinly sliced topside steak, thawed if frozen (see Tip)
    • 1bunch cilantro, leaves and tender stems picked and chopped
    • 1bunch green onion, chopped
    • 1bunch Thai basil leaves
    • 1bunch sawtooth coriander (also called culantro or recao) or cilantro (optional)
    • 4bird’s eye chiles, thinly sliced
    • 4limes, cut into wedges
    • Sriracha sauce, for dipping the meat
    • Hoisin sauce, for dipping the meat
Ingredient Substitution Guide
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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Clean the bones and meat: Squeeze the juice of the lemons into a large (12-quart) stockpot. Add the marrow bones, brisket, oxtail and short ribs. Cover with cold water. Add 5 tablespoons of the salt and stir to dissolve. Add the spent lemon halves and let soak for 1 hour.

  2. Step 2

    While the meat soaks, char the onion and ginger, and dry-toast the spices. If using a gas stove: Turn on the exhaust fan and open windows. Using tongs, hold the onion and ginger directly over a medium flame and char, turning as necessary, until the skins are blackened, about 15 minutes. You can also place a grated rack over the flame. If using an outdoor gas or charcoal grill: Grill as above on medium-high heat. If using the oven: Place the oven rack in the upper position; place the onions and ginger on a baking sheet and broil, turning, until charred. When charred, set the vegetables aside until cool enough to handle, then peel and discard the skins. Rinse the peeled onion and ginger in cold water and set aside to dry. (The charred onion and ginger may be prepared up to 1 day in advance, placed in an airtight container and stored in the fridge.)

  3. Step 3

    Dry-toast the star anise, cardamom seeds, cinnamon stick, whole cloves, coriander seeds and fennel seeds together in a small pan over medium heat, stirring frequently, until aromatic, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool. Transfer spices to a spice bag, a strainer or wrap in cheesecloth and secure with twine; set aside. (If not using right away, store the spice bag in an airtight container for up to 1 day.)

  4. Step 4

    Parboil the meat: Discard the lemon halves. Set a wire rack over a sheet pan. Set the pot with the meat over high heat and cover. Bring to a boil, being careful not to let it overflow. When just boiling, remove cover and boil 5 minutes more. Carefully drain then rinse the bones and meat under cold running water. Transfer meat and bones to the prepared rack to dry. (This may be done up to 1 day ahead: After the meat and bones are completely dry and cool, place in an airtight container and store in the fridge; or cover the sheet pan with plastic wrap before refrigerating.)

  5. Step 5

    Scrub the pot clean, return the parboiled marrow bones, oxtail and ribs (not the brisket) to the pot and fill with about 8 liters (or 8 quarts) of water. Set the pot over high heat, cover and bring to a boil. When just boiling, remove cover and use a skimmer, ladle or large spoon to skim off and discard the foam (the impurities that have risen to the surface, a.k.a. scum), until the water looks clear, 3 to 4 minutes. Adjust heat to low, half cover and gently simmer for 3 hours, skimming off any impurities as needed.

  6. Step 6

    Cut the charred onions in half and add along with the ginger and daikon to the simmering broth. Stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons salt and the rock sugar. Add the fish sauce, brisket and the spice bag and simmer, half-covered, for 3 hours, continuing to skim impurities as needed.

  7. Step 7

    Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning to your preference. Take the pot off the heat. Remove and discard the spice bag, daikon, onion and ginger. Carefully, transfer the brisket, oxtail and short rib meat to a large bowl; discard any bones. Cover the meat with cold water and soak for 10 minutes, to prevent drying. Drain and set aside to cool. Pick the meat off the oxtail and shred the short rib meat. Thinly slice the brisket or shred into thin strips. Cover all the meat and set aside until ready to serve. (If not using all the meat right away, when the meat is completely dry and cool, wrap in plastic wrap and store in the fridge for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months. Thaw frozen meat overnight in the fridge.)

  8. Step 8

    Skim off any fat that has risen to the surface of the broth. Set a fine mesh strainer over a large pot. Using a large ladle or measuring cup, carefully and slowly strain the broth. Don’t pour the stock all at once. Don’t rush this process; it’s crucial to produce the signature clarity of the broth. (If storing the broth for later use, when completely cool, pour into containers and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months.)

  9. Step 9

    Thirty minutes before serving: Soak noodles in a bowl of cold water. Make sure all the toppings are prepped to serve, and set aside individual bowls for them.

  10. Step 10

    To serve: Using about 2 cups of broth per serving, reheat over medium and keep at a simmer. The broth should be hot when serving. Taste and adjust seasoning again, as needed.

  11. Step 11

    Fill a medium saucepan with water and bring to a boil, and blanch the bean sprouts for 5 to 10 seconds. Remove sprouts using a slotted spoon or a spider and divide between serving bowls. Keep the water at a boil. Drain the noodles and boil for 5 seconds, until pliable. Drain and divide between bowls. Top each bowl with brisket, any other meat pieces, and arrange raw slices of steak on top.

  12. Step 12

    Ladle the hot broth into the bowls. Top with cilantro, green onion, basil , coriander (if using) and chiles. Serve with lime wedges, sriracha and hoisin on the side for dipping the meat. (Do not add the sauces to the broth. Think of the hours you have spent perfecting it!)

Tips
  • Packages of beef marrow bones and knuckle bones, often labeled as soup bones, can be found in the refrigerated or frozen section of Asian markets.
  • Phở noodles, dried narrow flat rice noodles, are labeled as bánh phở.
  • You can purchase pre-sliced steak at Asian markets. Topside steak may be labeled as top-round.

Ratings

4 out of 5
35 user ratings
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Comments

It would be thoughtful if people that gave this recipe a low rating could leave a small comment as to why they gave it a low rating. Helpful for recipe seekers and maybe even for the authors.

In the mid 90s I was obsessed with making pho and never got it right until a Vietnamese coworker gave me the “secret” ingredient (and she was correct) - a little orange box of Gia Vi Nau Pho. For those less ambitious about gathering these spices or don’t live close enough to a store that has all of them.

I’m Viet and my family is from the south. I make pho monthly. No daikon in the broth as it has a distinct taste. Also, we cook the bones for nearly 10 hours, so 3 hours seems way too short. Lastly, no fish sauce in the pot, only on the table. What’s the point of just 2 tablespoons of fish sauce in an huge pot? Only salt and rock sugar in the pot, or a couple of pinches of msg if you are willing.

Not sure why this recipe isn’t rated higher. I’m a non-native that never made pho before and used this as my starting point. While following the recipe to a T is very labor and time intensive, the general recipe and ratios are fantastic. The main thing I’ve noticed after making this twice now is that soaking the beef and really scrubbing it is the most important part to getting a beautiful clear broth. I soak the beef overnight in the fridge without the acid or salt and then blanch it. Seems to work well. I’ve also modified to make this in an instant pot by cooking on high pressure for 45 minutes. The meat breaks down wonderfully and I get a super flavorful stock. Given my pot is on the smaller side, the stock is a bit concentrated, which is fine as I just cut with some water at about 2:1 stock to water ratio. Besides that, I really appreciate the spice ratio of this recipe compared to others I’ve seen. It comes out great once you modify the instructions to suit your cooking style and time frame.

I took a pho class from a Thai woman at the local community college. She said to just buy the packet of pho spice mix, available from Amazon or some oriental grocery stores

I’m Viet and my family is from the south. I make pho monthly. No daikon in the broth as it has a distinct taste. Also, we cook the bones for nearly 10 hours, so 3 hours seems way too short. Lastly, no fish sauce in the pot, only on the table. What’s the point of just 2 tablespoons of fish sauce in an huge pot? Only salt and rock sugar in the pot, or a couple of pinches of msg if you are willing.

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