Parker House Rolls With Black Pepper and Demerara Sugar

Updated Nov. 27, 2023

Parker House Rolls With Black Pepper and Demerara Sugar
Bobbi Lin for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Maggie Ruggiero.
Total Time
4 to 5 hours
Prep Time
5 minutes
Cook Time
1 hour, plus 3 to 4 hours’ rising time
Rating
5(157)
Comments
Read comments

These tender, fluffy morsels are everything you want in a Parker House roll. The secret to their particularly moist interior is adding instant potato flakes to the dough, a technique adapted from King Arthur Baking Company. Softened butter, seasoned with black pepper and Demerara sugar, is brushed on top both before and after baking, giving these rolls a glossy, burnished crust that gets a little crisp at the edges where the sugar meets the pan. (For a more classic Parker House roll, skip the pepper and sugar.) Like all rolls, these are best served warm from the oven or on the same day they’re baked. Then split and toast any leftovers for breakfast the next morning. 

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Ingredients

Yield:18 rolls

    For the Dough

    • 3cups/360 grams all-purpose flour, more as needed
    • ¾cup/48 grams instant potato flakes (not flavored)
    • 3tablespoons granulated sugar
    • teaspoons instant or active dry yeast
    • 1teaspoon fine sea salt
    • 3tablespoons unsalted butter, more for bowl
    • 1cup/227 grams whole milk
    • 1large egg

    For the Seasoned Butter

    • 8tablespoons/113 grams unsalted butter, softened
    • 1tablespoon Demerara sugar
    • 1teaspoon fine sea salt, more for sprinkling
    • 1teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, more for sprinkling
    • Flaky sea salt
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (18 servings)

161 calories; 8 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 2 grams monounsaturated fat; 0 grams polyunsaturated fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 3 grams sugars; 3 grams protein; 116 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Prepare the dough: In a large bowl, or in the bowl of a stand mixer with a dough hook, combine flour, potato flakes, granulated sugar, yeast and salt. Mix briefly to combine.

  2. Step 2

    In a small saucepan or in the microwave, melt butter. Add the milk to the hot butter; the mixture should be warm to the touch (if it’s hot, let cool until warm to the touch). Whisk in the egg. Add to the dry ingredients and mix on low speed or by hand with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms. Knead the dough by hand on a lightly floured surface, or in the stand mixer, until the dough is smooth, elastic and sticky, about 10 minutes by hand or 4 to 5 minutes in a mixer.

  3. Step 3

    Transfer to a lightly greased bowl and cover with plastic wrap or clean towel. Allow to rise until almost double in size, about 1 ½ to 2 hours (or longer if your room is cold).

  4. Step 4

    Prepare the seasoned butter: In a small bowl, combine butter, Demerara sugar, salt and black pepper, mixing with a spatula until smooth. Using a pastry brush, brush a little of the butter mixture on the sides and bottom of a 9-by-13-inch pan. Set aside.

  5. Step 5

    When the dough has risen and appears soft and puffy, transfer it to a very lightly floured surface and divide it in half. Roll or pat half of the dough into an 8-by-12-inch rectangle. With a pastry brush, brush about 2 tablespoons butter mixture over the entire surface of the dough. Fold dough in half to make an 8-by-6-inch rectangle.

  6. Step 6

    Using a bench knife, regular knife or pizza wheel, cut the dough into thirds lengthwise and then thirds crosswise to make 9 pieces. Place them in the buttered pan. Repeat with the remaining half of dough, using about another 2 tablespoons butter. (You will have 18 rolls.) Once all rolls have been shaped and placed in the pan, brush tops generously with about half of the remaining butter, reserving the rest for after baking.

  7. Step 7

    Cover the pan and set aside in a warm place to rise until very puffy, 1 to 2 hours.

  8. Step 8

    When the rolls are nearly proofed, heat oven to 425 degrees. Once proofed, sprinkle rolls with flaky salt, more Demerara sugar and lots of cracked black pepper. Bake until golden brown on top, about 17 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven, and brush with remaining seasoned butter. Pull apart to serve warm or at room temperature.

Ratings

5 out of 5
157 user ratings
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Comments

I love these! I used potato flakes (found in organic section of my Giant supermarket), but I think you could also use plain instant mashed potatoes. I made them the day before and did a "cold rise" for the second rise - put the tightly wrapped buttered pan with rolls in the fridge overnight (16 hours), then right into the oven, and they were perfect. The topping is superb - it takes plain rolls to another level.

I made these the other day and they were amazing. I baked a half a batch the first day and let the other half do its second rise overnight in the fridge. The ones that did the cold overnight rise were much more flavorful and had better texture. Will be making these tomorrow through the shaping step, refrigerate and then transfer them in a cold cooler to my destination 2.5 hours away. Will put in the fridge when I get there and bake the next morning! Wish me luck! Precious cargo!

Yes, potato flakes=instant mashed potatoes.

These are quite good. Like, I have already eaten three and its not even dinnertime, yet. I did bake these in cast iron, which I oftentimes do--we live in the city and try to optimize the pans we have. While the smaller cast iron on the top-shelf-of-the-oven turned out perfectly, the larger cast iron closer to the middle of the over did scorch the bottom. Would you turn down the heat and just bake another 3-5 minutes or until golden on top?

I love this recipe but with a few tweaks. I like to do half bread flour and half all purpose to keep the rolls light and fluffy with a good rise. When kneading I always do closer to 15 minutes by hand. Also do not skimp on proofing time for these, they can get doughy. The recipe also works well if this is baked in a loaf tin and made into bread (same baking time)

Hard for me to imagine a sugar crust on my rolls. and i'm from texas! does anyone who has made these have any comments on the sugar? does anyone have anything to say about which of these two recipes they prefer- the pizza dough rolls or the more homemade version?

Its subtle. Just enough to make you want to eat another. Like, brioche sweet not cinnamon roll sweet.

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Credits

Adapted from King Arthur Baking Company

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