Rice Porridge With Squash and Brown Butter

Rice Porridge With Squash and Brown Butter
Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Hilary Robertson.
Total Time
40 minutes, plus cooling overnight
Rating
4(328)
Comments
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This recipe for a rich, winter-y rice porridge comes from Minh Phan, the owner of Porridge + Puffs in Los Angeles. Ms. Phan is a porridge whisperer, creating all kinds of complex, beautiful rice bowls, and her velvet porridge rich with roasted squash is no exception. To make a simple version of it at home, roast a mix of squash then purée it with brown butter and a little half and half. Stir the mixture into loose, cooked rice for a comforting meal you can eat plain, topped with pickled vegetables and herbs, some browned sausage or dressed salad leaves. Ms. Phan lets the cooked rice rest overnight so the grains absorb the seasoning evenly, but if you’re in a rush, you can go ahead and eat it right away. —Tejal Rao

Featured in: Not Your Dickensian Bowl of Porridge

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • 3cups water
  • 1cup medium-grain white rice
  • 1teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • Black pepper, to taste
  • 1½ to 2pounds mixed squash, such as honeynut, kabocha or butternut
  • 4tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 6ounces unsalted butter
  • ½cup half-and-half
  • Handful of fresh herbs, such as mint, lemon balm or basil, to garnish
  • Pickled vegetables, to garnish
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

716 calories; 53 grams fat; 25 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 21 grams monounsaturated fat; 4 grams polyunsaturated fat; 58 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 6 grams sugars; 7 grams protein; 511 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a pot, add the cold water and rice, and place over medium heat. Slowly bring to a boil, stirring occasionally to keep rice from sticking to the bottom of the pan, then turn down to low heat and simmer. When rice is tender and water is almost evaporated, about 20 minutes, season the rice, and stir well. Cool at room temperature, then transfer to the fridge overnight.

  2. Step 2

    Heat the oven to 400. Halve the squash, then use a knife to remove the skin, and roughly chop squash into 2-inch pieces. Toss with oil, and spread on a baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt, and roast for 30 minutes, or until browned and tender all the way through.

  3. Step 3

    In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, and simmer until the butter spatters and the milk solids turn brown, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool for a few minutes. Add the squash, browned butter and half-and-half to a blender and purée, stopping to scrape down the sides as needed to get a very evenly smooth purée. Add a splash more water if needed to help the blades catch the squash.

  4. Step 4

    After the rice has rested for about 8 hours, or overnight, warm it in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring gently with a splash of water. The porridge should be thick and shiny, but not soupy, with the texture of a soft risotto. When it is warm, add the squash purée, and stir well. Simmer everything together on low heat for about five minutes, then taste and season as needed with salt and pepper. Ladle hot porridge into bowls, and garnish with a mix of fresh herbs and pickled vegetables.

Ratings

4 out of 5
328 user ratings
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Comments

I searched for best kind of rice to use for Asian rice porridge and found a comprehensive guide for various methods, including brown rice. The trick appears to be either soaking the brown rice for 8 hours ahead of cooking or breaking the brown rice down with a food processor, being careful not to turn it into powder. You could do both. It also recommended freezing white rice for 4 to 8 hours which speeds up cooking and contributes to creaminess. Search on "What to Cook Today" site.

Seasoned means “salting” that’s all. This is a gorgeous dish. Suggest subbing coconut milk for half and half and fish sauce for salt.

Not a note but a question....can you use brown rice and get similar results?

This was delicious! And so decadent! The only change I made was to swap a light stock for most of the half and half as it is crazy rich! Topped it with crispy enoki mushrooms as well as herbs and served with pickles and edamame. Will definitely cook again - clearly can go in many flavour profile directions.

Opened a jar of picked herring and onions to top it off - divine!

This sounds like a lovely recipe, but what is half-and-half?

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Credits

Adapted from Minh Phan of Porridge + Puffs

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