Stuffed Ham, Southern Maryland Style

Stuffed Ham, Southern Maryland Style
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Total Time
5½ hours, plus chilling and corning
Rating
4(58)
Comments
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There are as many recipes for southern Maryland stuffed ham as there are families in St. Mary’s County. It shows up on Christmas and Easter tables, and at almost every community fund-raising supper. This recipe, compiled from cooks whose families have been making it for generations, uses raw stuffing and is spiced with plenty of black and red pepper. Because the ham boils for so long, the spiciness will mellow. The most challenging part is the finding the ham itself. Corned hams — which are simply fresh hams that have been cured in salt or brine — aren’t usually in the grocery meat case, and butchers will often require advance orders. Corning your own fresh ham is not hard, but it can take several days and turns this into even more of a project.

Featured in: In This Corner of Maryland, Holidays Mean a Stuffed Ham

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Ingredients

Yield:8 to 12 servings, plus leftovers
  • ½of a fresh or corned ham (8 to 12 pounds)
  • 1cup kosher salt plus more, if corning
  • 3pounds green cabbage
  • 1pound curly kale, or a mixture of other greens like mustard greens or watercress
  • 2medium yellow onions (about 1 pound)
  • 1bunch scallions (about 7)
  • tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
  • tablespoons red-pepper flakes
  • 1tablespoon mustard seed
  • 1tablespoon celery seed
  • 1teaspoon cayenne
  • 1tablespoon salt
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (10 servings)

1079 calories; 77 grams fat; 28 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 38 grams monounsaturated fat; 10 grams polyunsaturated fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams dietary fiber; 30 grams sugars; 79 grams protein; 5436 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    If corning the ham: Cut slits about 3 inches deep in a few places around the bone. Push salt into the incisions and, with a light hand, rub salt all over the surface of the ham. Reserve any remaining salt to rub into the ham as it corns, adding more if needed later in the process. Place the ham in a nonreactive pan, cover tightly with plastic wrap and then aluminum foil and place it in refrigerator for a week. Unwrap and turn it every couple of days, sprinkling with more reserved salt and pouring off any juice that collects each time. Rewrap. The day before you are going to stuff the ham, rinse off the salt and soak the ham overnight in cold water in the refrigerator.

  2. Step 2

    Make the stuffing: The goal is to chop all the vegetables so the pieces are small and relatively uniform in size. Begin by chopping the cabbage. A food processor with a shredding blade is helpful. Place the cabbage in a large pan or bowl. Remove large stems from the kale and other greens, if you are using them, and chop. (Tip: Freeze cleaned, whole kale leaves overnight in plastic bags, then break up the frozen leaves while still in the bag and add to the stuffing mixture.) Chop the yellow onions and scallions, and add them to the cabbage and kale.

  3. Step 3

    Mix the vegetables well and add the spices. Mix again. (Your hands will work best for this, but wear gloves if your skin is sensitive to pepper.) Taste the stuffing and adjust, adding more cayenne or red-pepper flakes for a more intense spiciness. Keep in mind that the long boiling time will soften the heat.

  4. Step 4

    Stuff the ham: Remove the bone, or have the butcher remove it for you. The ham should be almost butterflied. Add the bone to a pot large enough to hold the ham, fill with enough water to cover it and begin to heat the water to a boil.

  5. Step 5

    While the water heats, set the ham on a sheet pan and cut slits about 3 inches long and 2 inches deep in a few places to make pockets, being careful not to slice through the meat completely. The number of slits will depend on the size of the ham. The goal is an even distribution of stuffing. Pack the slits tightly with stuffing, and add stuffing to the center of the ham where the bone was. Close the ham and secure it with kitchen string.

  6. Step 6

    Prepare a large square of cheesecloth at least 3 layers thick. Spoon a layer of stuffing over the cheesecloth and set the ham on it. Pack more stuffing on the top and sides of the ham. Gather the corners of the cheesecloth to the top and twist tightly to form a compact package. Tie the top tightly with string.

  7. Step 7

    Lower the ham into boiling water, reduce heat to a simmer and add any juice that has collected from the stuffing. Skim any foam that rises. Cook, covered, for about 15 minutes per pound, or until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees.

  8. Step 8

    Turn off the heat and let the ham cool slightly in the water, about an hour. (Old-timers simply put the whole pot on the porch overnight if the weather was cool, or left it on the stove until completely cooled.) Drain the ham in a colander and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight. Remove the cheesecloth and string, and reserve any stuffing around the ham.

  9. Step 9

    To serve, slice the ham across the grain, so each slice contains stuffing and meat. Pile additional stuffing around the slices. The ham can be reheated, but more often it is served cold.

Tip
  • Most fresh hams are sold whole, and can weigh close to 20 pounds. An accommodating butcher will sell you half a ham. To corn it, follow this formula: For every pound of meat, leave it in the salt mixture for a half-day. (A 10-pound ham will take about 5 days to corn.) Bill Smith, the chef at Crook’s Corner in Chapel Hill, N.C., suggests corning a whole 20- to 25-pound ham for 11 days. If you are making a whole ham, double the recipe for the stuffing.

Ratings

4 out of 5
58 user ratings
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Comments

Doing it yourself is not nearly as daunting as it seems in the recipe. If you live in MD or NC you may be able to find corned hams in grocery stores around the holidays, which makes this dish even easier. NC-based Food Lion carries them here in MD. Hopefully, this recipe and the associated article will help to spread this wonderful dish. Everyone for whom I've prepared it has instantly fallen in love. Once you taste it, you just know these ingredients were meant to be together.

Wow! this is a recipe worth its monumental efforts. In Maine our pork farmers offer plenty of fresh ham legs ready to corn.

In Kentucky the Luckett version (which came from Maryland in the early 1800's) uses salt and air cured country ham.

This was a slave recipe here in Maryland, not an English one that some locals want to say about it, and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. The fact that heat is in this recipe says it all, like most Afro-Caribbean cuisine, English food does not. The slave owners gave the slaves at the holidays the worst part of the pig & African and Caribbean influence from enslaved cooks brought a new twist to European ham, to create something uniquely American.

I lived in Maryland for years and this is what I make every Christmas and in between. But I got tired of always looking for a corned ham, so I started using a regular old shank portion ham and I don't corn it. My family likes it better less salt also ! Just a tip if you use just a regular ham just cut the bone out and freeze it for later use. put a rack in the bottom of pot or a basket "which makes it so much easier to pull your ham out" But add two cartons of vegetable broth and the rest water.

I was taught in St.Mary's County how to stuff a ham years ago and I still do it whenever able. I am going to make one this Christmas time. I enjoy it tho it is a task for me at times due to shoulder surgery last year. But I think I will be up for the task again this year. I live in NC now but would love to just purchace half a corned ham to do the job again next month. My parents and Grandparents are long gone but may have to have my brother grab me a corned ham so I can just drive 3 hrs away.

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