Inside-Out Lamb Cheeseburgers

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Start a charcoal or wood fire or preheat a gas grill. Or, on a stove top, heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat for 3 or 4 minutes.

2. Step 2

   Put meat and some salt and pepper in a food processor, in batches if necessary, and pulse until coarsely ground: finer than chopped, but not much. Taste and adjust seasoning. (If desired, cook a teaspoon of meat in a pan before tasting.) Divide meat into 4 sections and shape each one around a piece of cheese, enclosing it fully.

3. Step 3

   Cook over moderately hot fire: you will be able to hold your hand 3 or 4 inches over rack for a few seconds. Grill burgers about 4 minutes a side for medium-rare, and until cheese begins to melt. (Timing on stove top is the same.)

4. Step 4

   Serve on buns, toast or hard rolls, garnished as you like.