How to use papaya to tenderize meat before grilling?

Green papaya (with its skin), can tenderize meat without altering its flavor when puréed into a paste and rubbed into raw meat at least 12 hours before cooking. Green papaya is available at Asian grocery stores, but ripe papaya will also work, though it will also add a light tropical flavor to the food. Avoid canned papaya, as it has been heat-treated and loses the enzymes needed for tenderizing.

What are the best ways to store and use leftover papaya?

Papaya can be frozen for future use or enjoyed in salads. To freeze peel, chop, and place the pieces on a parchment-lined baking sheet; once frozen, transfer to a zip-top bag. For papaya paste, freeze it in ice cube trays and transfer to a zip-top bag for easy use in future marinades. Frozen papaya also works well in smoothies.

What is red chile powder?

Unlike American chili powder, South Asian red chile powder (often labeled “lal mirch”) is made only from dried red chiles and is widely available online and in South Asian grocery stores. Its heat level is somewhere between cayenne and sweet paprika, and it adds both bold spice and complexity to dishes.

What are the best skewers for kebabs?

While any metal or wooden skewer will work, flat metal skewers are traditionally used for boti and kebabs to keep the meat from spinning or slipping during grilling. The flat surface ensures even cooking and better control. If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for at least 30 minutes before using to prevent burning.

What is the best way to grill tender kebabs?

Start by tossing the meat in a marinade that contains yogurt or papaya puree (or both) for at least 12 and up to 24 hours. To keep the meat tender when grilling, avoid direct heat when grilling kebabs, since it can char them before they’re cooked through. If the kebabs are still browning too quickly, transfer them to the wire rack over the grill grates and close the lid, or cover with foil to retain moisture. Flip every 8 to 10 minutes for even cooking.

Beef Boti (Marinated Grilled Kebabs)

Name: Beef Boti (Marinated Grilled Kebabs)
Prep time: 10 min
Cook time: 50 min
Total time: 1 h
Yield: 3 to 4 servings
Cuisine: pakistani
Ingredients: 1/4 cup papaya chunks (thawed if frozen); 1 pound beef tenderloin, sirloin or flank steak, cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks; 1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal); 1 1/2 teaspoons coriander seeds; 1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds; 1/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt; 2 tablespoons ghee, melted unsalted butter or vegetable oil; 1 tablespoon lemon juice; 1 tablespoon ginger paste or grated fresh ginger; 2 teaspoons garlic paste or grated fresh garlic; 1/2 teaspoon red chile powder, preferably South Asian lal mirch (or 1/4 teaspoon paprika and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne), see Tip; 1/2 teaspoon garam masala; 1/2 teaspoon chaat masala (optional), see Tip; 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric; Vegetable oil, for brushing; Any combination of naan, tamarind chutney, sliced red or yellow onions, sliced cucumber, cilantro, mint and lemon wedges, for serving

By Kausar Ahmed

Published June 3, 2025

Beef Boti (Marinated Grilled Kebabs) — Kelly Marshall for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

Total Time: 1 hour, plus 12 hours’ marinating
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 50 minutes, plus 12 hours’ marinating
Rating: 4(10)
Comments: Read comments

In Pakistan and across the Indian subcontinent, grilled meat is a streetside staple, especially during Eid al-Adha, when families gather to cook and share festive meals. Tender, flavorful beef boti is a particular favorite. The secret lies in the marinade: a mix of yogurt, spices, lemon juice and puréed papaya, which acts as a natural tenderizer. After marinating for at least 12 hours, the cubes of beef are threaded onto skewers, sizzled on the grill, and served with a tangle of raw onions and a squeeze of lemon. Toasting the cumin and coriander elevates the dish, though ground spices work well in a pinch. With just a handful of pantry ingredients and a bit of patience, this recipe delivers bold, smoky flavor and irresistible tenderness. It’s perfect for a weeknight dinner or weekend gathering, as it can easily be doubled for a crowd.

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Ingredients

Yield:3 to 4 servings

¼cup papaya chunks (thawed if frozen)
1pound beef tenderloin, sirloin or flank steak, cut into 1½-inch chunks
1teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
1½teaspoons coriander seeds
1½teaspoons cumin seeds
¼cup plain whole-milk yogurt
2tablespoons ghee, melted unsalted butter or vegetable oil
1tablespoon lemon juice
1tablespoon ginger paste or grated fresh ginger
2teaspoons garlic paste or grated fresh garlic
½teaspoon red chile powder, preferably South Asian lal mirch (or ¼ teaspoon paprika and ¼ teaspoon cayenne), see Tip
½teaspoon garam masala
½teaspoon chaat masala (optional), see Tip
¼teaspoon ground turmeric
Vegetable oil, for brushing
Any combination of naan, tamarind chutney, sliced red or yellow onions, sliced cucumber, cilantro, mint and lemon wedges, for serving

Ingredient Substitution Guide

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Preparation

Step 1
In a blender, combine the papaya chunks with ¼ cup water and blend into a smooth paste, adding more water as needed to run the machine.
Step 2
In a large bowl, season the beef cubes with the salt. Add the papaya paste and rub to coat all sides. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour to start marinating.
Step 3
In a small dry skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander and cumin seeds, shaking the pan occasionally, until fragrant, lightly browned and beginning to pop, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, grind to a fine powder and transfer to a small bowl.
Step 4
To the bowl of toasted spices, add the yogurt, ghee, lemon juice, ginger, garlic, chile powder, garam masala, chaat masala (if using) and turmeric, and whisk to combine. Add to the marinated beef and mix thoroughly to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 11 more hours (and up to 24 hours).
Step 5
One hour before you’d like to grill, thread the marinated meat onto metal skewers, without overcrowding. Let the meat come to room temperature for 1 hour before cooking.
Step 6
Prepare a charcoal grill for indirect grilling, piling the coals on one side, or heat one side of a gas grill to high. (To use an oven instead, see Tip.)
Step 7
Place the skewers on the side of the grate not directly heated by the coals or gas burners, and turn down the lit burners to medium-low if using a gas grill. Cover and cook, rotating the skewers every 8 to 10 minutes and brushing with oil to keep them moist, until well done and lightly charred, 25 to 30 minutes. (An instant-read thermometer inserted into the meat should read 160 degrees.) Cook time will vary depending on the cut of beef and marination time.
Step 8
Transfer kebabs to a serving dish, cover loosely with foil and let rest for a few minutes. Serve hot with your choice of naan, tamarind chutney, sliced onions, cucumber, cilantro, mint and lemon wedges.

Tips

South Asian red chile powder (often labeled “lal mirch”) is made only from dried red chiles and is widely available online and in South Asian grocery stores. Its heat level is somewhere between cayenne and sweet paprika, and it adds both bold spice and complexity to dishes.
Chaat masala adds depth of flavor and a light tanginess to dishes, thanks to ingredients like earthy, tangy black salt and amchur (dried sour mango powder). It also helps tenderize meat. It’s available at South Asian markets or online. If unavailable, the recipe still works well without it.
To roast the skewers in the oven, heat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil and lightly brush with oil. Place the skewers in a single layer without overcrowding. Drizzle or brush any remaining marinade over them, cover with foil and bake for about 30 minutes, until fork-tender and the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees. Uncover, heat the broiler to low, and lightly char the meat, turning once, 1 to 2 minutes per side.

FAQS

Green papaya (with its skin), can tenderize meat without altering its flavor when puréed into a paste and rubbed into raw meat at least 12 hours before cooking. Green papaya is available at Asian grocery stores, but ripe papaya will also work, though it will also add a light tropical flavor to the food. Avoid canned papaya, as it has been heat-treated and loses the enzymes needed for tenderizing.
Start by tossing the meat in a marinade that contains yogurt or papaya puree (or both) for at least 12 and up to 24 hours. To keep the meat tender when grilling, avoid direct heat when grilling kebabs, since it can char them before they’re cooked through. If the kebabs are still browning too quickly, transfer them to the wire rack over the grill grates and close the lid, or cover with foil to retain moisture. Flip every 8 to 10 minutes for even cooking.

Ratings

4 out of 5

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Comments

Stan Dsouza2 weeks ago

Just my two cents worth, but roasting till the meat is just medium rare, would be great, especially if you are using tenderloin.

Chris2 weeks ago

Ok I made this today and really liked the flavors but would not recommend the recipe for filet. The papaya really works as a tenderizer and wound up making the filet texture a little too stringy and soft... could be perfect for something like sirloin or maybe a strip steak, though.

Chris2 weeks ago

I tried it with filet tonight and the papaya was such an effective tenderizer, that the meat got too soft. I agree with you to go medium rare but would work much better with sirloin or a cut up strip steak, something like that. Great flavor though!

SC6 days ago

Any suggestions for a substitute for the yogurt? My daughter has a severe dairy intolerance, but otherwise this recipe looks right up her alley. I can find oat milk yogurt, but can’t imagine that being nearly the same thing in this recipe, and am not 100% sure I can find non-flavored. Thanks!

Heather1 week ago

I’m bracing for mockery as I ask: Is there a substitute for fresh papaya in this recipe? It seems to be used strictly as a tenderizer, not for flavor. I love the other recipe ingredients but I’m not fond of papaya and after using just 1/4 cup in the recipe I’d have 2 to 4 cups left over that would probably end up in the compost bin.

AP1 week ago

@Heather I’m making the recipe right now with fresh mango. Will let you know.

Stan Dsouza2 weeks ago

Just my two cents worth, but roasting till the meat is just medium rare, would be great, especially if you are using tenderloin.

Chris2 weeks ago

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