Thai Tea Tres Leches Cake

Updated Dec. 6, 2023

Thai Tea Tres Leches Cake
Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Eleni Pappas.
Total Time
5¼ hours
Prep Time
15 minutes
Cook Time
1½ hours plus 3½ hours’ cooling and chilling
Rating
4(168)
Comments
Read comments

The marquee dessert at Golden Diner, in Manhattan’s Chinatown, is a take on tres leches, a Latin American cake soaked in three kinds of milk, as the Spanish name attests: whole milk, condensed milk and evaporated milk, its unsweetened cousin. Sam Yoo, the chef and owner, infuses the milk with Thai tea powder, a blend of black tea and vanilla that yields a signature tiger-orange hue. The longer the cake soaks, the better it is. (Mr. Yoo lets it rest for as long as two nights, with a flip in between so the liquid that’s pooled at the bottom has another chance to run through.) The cake is finished with whipped cream, coconut flakes toasted near gold and lime zest lending a bright sting. Keep the cake in the refrigerator until the last moment, so it’s as cold as possible and melts in the mouth, almost like ice cream. The faint bitterness of the tea checks the sweetness of the cake, so it’s just enough. —Ligaya Mishan

Featured in: The Longer This Cake Soaks, the Better It Is

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Ingredients

Yield:12 servings

    For the Cake

    • Butter, for greasing the pan
    • cups/286 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the pan
    • 5large egg whites
    • ½teaspoon cream of tartar
    • cups plus 2 tablespoons/320 grams granulated sugar
    • 1tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder
    • 6large egg yolks
    • ½cup/110 milliliters whole milk
    • teaspoons vanilla extract

    For the Tres Leches

    • 3cups/720 milliliters whole milk
    • 2cups/480 milliliters evaporated milk
    • cups/420 milliliters sweetened condensed milk
    • Heaping ½ cup/42 grams Thai tea powder (see Tip)

    For the Whipped Cream

    • 2cups/480 milliliters heavy cream
    • ½cup/117 grams sour cream
    • 3tablespoons granulated sugar
    • 1teaspoon vanilla extract

    For Serving

    • 2cups/100 grams unsweetened coconut flakes, toasted (see Tip)
    • 3limes, for zesting
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (12 servings)

843 calories; 38 grams fat; 24 grams saturated fat; 1 gram trans fat; 9 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 114 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 90 grams sugars; 17 grams protein; 303 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch cake pan and dust with flour.

  2. Step 2

    Prepare the cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium-high until soft peaks form, about 1 minute. Gradually add the sugar, whipping as you go, until fluffy with firm peaks, about 5 minutes.

  3. Step 3

    In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, whole milk and vanilla until well combined. With the mixer running on medium speed, gradually add the wet ingredients to the whipped whites until well combined, stopping and scraping the bowl as necessary. Gradually add the dry ingredients until well combined, scraping the bowl as necessary.

  4. Step 4

    Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, then spread evenly. Bake for 18 minutes, then rotate the pan and continue baking for another 8 to 10 minutes, until the top is golden brown. A toothpick inserted into the center should come out clean.

  5. Step 5

    Remove the cake from the oven and let cool in the pan until slightly warmer than room temperature, about 30 minutes. Refrigerate the cake, still in the pan and uncovered, while you make the tres leches mixture.

  6. Step 6

    Make the tres leches: In a small saucepan, warm the whole milk, evaporated milk and condensed milk over medium heat. Stir occasionally until just shy of simmering, steaming but not bubbling, 10 to 15 minutes. Whisk in the tea powder. Take the saucepan off the heat and let the tea steep for 10 minutes. (It will turn orange.) Using a fine-mesh sieve or tea strainer, strain into a liquid measuring cup or medium bowl.

  7. Step 7

    Take the cake out of the refrigerator. Using a fork, poke holes all across the surface of the cake — the more holes the better — as close together as possible. With the cake still in the pan, cut it into 12 even pieces. (It will be more difficult to cut later, once the tres leches mixture has soaked through.)

  8. Step 8

    Carefully pour the warm tres leches mixture slowly and evenly over the cake, pausing as necessary to let the cake absorb the mixture. The cake should be fully soaked through the center; the white of the crumb should not be visible. Cover the cake with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or for a minimum of 3 hours.

  9. Step 9

    Just before serving, make the whipped cream: Combine the heavy cream, sour cream, sugar and vanilla extract in the bowl of a stand mixer. Whip on high speed until the cream doubles in volume and forms stiff peaks, about 1 minute.

  10. Step 10

    When ready to serve, take the cake out of the refrigerator. Transfer each slice to a separate plate. (Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.) Using a spatula, spread the whipped cream on top of each slice, or pipe it from a pastry bag. Scatter with the toasted coconut flakes until the whipped cream is covered completely. Finely grate lime zest directly over each slice. Serve cold: The cake should melt in your mouth, with a texture close to ice cream.

Tips
  • Thai tea powder can be purchased at Thai markets or online. Look for a brand of Thai tea powder with no added sugar or milk powder, such as Wangderm.
  • To toast coconut, spread on a rimmed baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until golden brown and crunchy, stirring once, 5 to 10 minutes.

Ratings

4 out of 5
168 user ratings
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Comments

What a brilliant idea. I've always liked the concept of tres leches cakes, but in practice they're invariably so supersweet that I find them cloying. Cutting all that sweetness with the astringency of tea seems like a tremendous idea. But before investing in the Thai powder, I think I'll experiment by heating the milk and steeping black tea in it. This might result in an unwelcome color, but I'll risk it.

This is beyond tasty. The only difficulty was having patience to let it soak before devouring

Sacrilege I know, but can anyone recommend a “supermarket” style cake, or box cake mix that could substitute?

This was really good and so fun for the White Lotus finale :) The cake did have to bake a little longer, like 10 minutes, and it was still a little underdone in the middle (next time I would wait until there was NO jiggle even if it gets a little brown) but still delish. I couldn’t find Thai tea leaves so used instant powder and decreased the condensed milk by half a cup because the powder is sweet and it worked great. Just kept adding packets until it tasted like tea (probably drank a good amount of milk tasting it lol) - I think it was about 3/4ths cup powder. I agree the lime zest and coconut is ESSENTIAL - do not skip the lime, this is very sweet. I would even want to maybe find a way to either make the cake or the milk mixture a little lime-y - will try some zest in the cake next time!

Made this exactly as described (except used a Thai tea powder with sugar) and it was absolutely spectacular. If you're thinking about it, MAKE IT. Worth the effort and time. And let it sit for at least 24 hours!

I made this exactly as the recipe states (with an 3-day soaking time) and it was mind-bogglingly good. Lighter than I expected, too! The flavors are complex and layer deliciously, and every component could’ve stood on its own. A perfectly airy and sweet chiffon cake; thai tea-flavored milk that I could’ve drunk by the gallon; and the whipped cream was luscious, with notes of tang from the sour cream. And of course, the lime zest and coconut flakes are a must, both for flavor and texture.

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Credits

Adapted from Sam Yoo of Golden Diner, New York City

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