White Borscht

Published Dec. 13, 2020

White Borscht
Photograph by Heami Lee. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.
Total Time
1½ hours
Rating
4(1,411)
Comments
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This white borscht, a nod to the tradition of sour soups in Ukrainian cooking, is simply a perfect meal: rich and satisfying, yet bright and delicate and clean all at once. It’s given its distinct tang up front, by soaking a hunk of sourdough bread in the simmering broth, and also at the end, by whisking in a little crème fraîche before serving. At the center is the delicious, subtle, complex broth. The better the kielbasa, the better the broth, obviously, and it’s worth using the whole garland for that complex smoky seasoning it imparts. There’ll be extra for snacking. The chopped dill keeps it all bright and fresh and lively in the mouth. A year-round classic to have in your repertoire, it’s especially beloved in colder months. When weather forecasters announce a dismal spell of sleeting days in a row, you’ll think, oh, good! White borscht weather!  

Featured in: This Borscht Is The Essence Of The East Village

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Ingredients

Yield:5 quarts
  • pounds full horseshoe link of high-quality smoked kielbasa
  • 5fresh bay leaves
  • 3pounds leeks (6 long, lively leeks)
  • 3pounds russet potatoes
  • 1cup unsalted butter (2 sticks)
  • 1large yellow onion, small-diced (about 2 cups)
  • 6garlic cloves, minced
  • Kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal
  • 1(4-ounce) hunk of dense, very sour sourdough bread, crusts removed
  • 1full tablespoon finely ground black pepper
  • ½cup crème fraîche
  • 1bunch fresh dill, woody stems removed, fronds minced
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (48 servings)

162 calories; 11 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 4 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 2 grams sugars; 4 grams protein; 230 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Cut kielbasa into 4 equal lengths, and cover in a pot with 3 quarts cold water and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then let gently boil for 25 minutes more until swollen and cooked through and beads of oil have formed. Pull sausages from the now smoky and seasoned water, and set aside. Save that water!

  2. Step 2

    While the kielbasa simmers, split leeks in half lengthwise, then soak and rinse in cold water to thoroughly remove all sand. Slice leeks into ⅜-inch half-moons from whites to dark greens, as far up as is viable.

  3. Step 3

    Peel potatoes, trim all four sides to stabilize on the cutting board and trim both ends to “box” the potato. Save the scraps. Cut the boxes into large cubes, about ¾-inch square.

  4. Step 4

    In a sturdy soup pot, melt 1 stick butter over low heat until foaming. Stir in onion, garlic and a healthy pinch of salt, and let them sweat for a full 5 minutes until translucent.

  5. Step 5

    Stir in remaining butter, the sliced leeks and another generous pinch of salt, then let sweat slowly over low heat for 8 minutes until moist, bright green and glossy.

  6. Step 6

    Add potato scraps, the cube of bread and half the kielbasa boiling liquid. Let gently simmer 10 minutes while the potato scrap softens and the bread hunk becomes flabby and swollen. If you need to increase the heat to get a little simmer going, do so.

  7. Step 7

    Meanwhile, slice kielbasa in half lengthwise. Place two pieces back into the soup pot as is, and then slice the remaining 6 pieces into very thin, ⅛-inch half-moons, and set aside.

  8. Step 8

    Retrieve the soggy lump of sourdough bread with a slotted spoon, and don’t worry if you also get a few bits of leek or onion or whatever is floating in the soup when you pull it out. Also remove about 1 cup of liquid, and set aside.

  9. Step 9

    Add potato cubes and the rest of the kielbasa liquid to the pot. Add another pinch of salt and half the black pepper. Let it come back to temperature, and then to simmer until potatoes are cooked through, about 25 minutes more.

  10. Step 10

    Using either a stick blender or a traditional blender, purée the sodden hunk of bread until foamy, using some of the liquid you pulled in Step 8, if needed. Stir this back into the soup pot once the potatoes are cooked through, and add the sliced kielbasa as well.

  11. Step 11

    Whisk the crème fraîche with ½ cup of the hot reserved liquid; stir mixture into the soup. Stir in the chopped dill and the remaining ½ tablespoon pepper. Serve very hot.

Ratings

4 out of 5
1,411 user ratings
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Comments

Excited to try this recipe - thank you! Thank you (even more) for bringing me back to a time and place that no longer exist. During the early to mid 90s heroin infestation in the East Village, places like Polonia on 1st Avenue - R.I.P. - often provided the 1 meal a day a drug-addicted 19-year-old could afford. Despite the general awfulness of those days, I have fond memories of a warm place to sit and delicious, hot food... served without judgement.

Zurek forever! Also known as "sour soup" or "Easter soup" by my Polish Babushka, known Stateside as Nanny. As kids, we dyed eggs with Ukranian egg dye; those later ended up sliced into the soup. Memories ... and a small tear!

This soup was so delicious- every single ingredient shone like a bright star. But the brightest star was that darned sourdough bread. And I didn't even use good sourdough bread- I used supermarket sliced rye. And I did not have creme fraiche. And the kielbasa was ordinary. And I used a half a stick less butter. And when does the viable part of the leek end? And were my leeks lively enough? It must be absolutely divine if you use all the right ingredients. It was anyway. Yum.

This brought me back to my 20s living in the East Village. Just delicious. Only modification was replacing the crème fraîche with sour cream. I have nothing against crème fraîche, but in white borscht, it struck me as a little too uptown. Might have to bake a challah to get the complete Proustian effect.

Very good. My end result not terribly sour but was tasty as is, and also delicious with a dash of vinegar and a dollop of sour cream on top.

My uncle, born on a ship from Poland, told me about his mother’s borscht. She started the broth by cooking kielbasa, ham and smoked pork to get that liquid, then removing the meat to cool. Some of the meat later went into the pot, but she served by slicing a layer of kielbasa into a bowl, grating horseradish on top, then doing the same with the smoked pork and the ham before ladling the soup on top of the meats. She served with more horseradish, dill and sour cream on the table to suit each taste.

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