St. John Beans and Bacon

Published Feb. 19, 2020

St. John Beans and Bacon
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
About 2 hours, plus overnight soaking
Rating
4(356)
Comments
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The London chef Fergus Henderson specializes in making British classics even more delicious at his popular restaurant St. John. Here’s his fragrant, richly flavored version of traditional baked beans with salt pork, a dish that evolved into an American staple. Using lots of fresh herbs and a little canned tomato is the key; pass crusty bread at the table to mop up the sauce. —Julia Moskin

Featured in: The Culinary Couple Who Built a British Empire

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Ingredients

Yield:8 to 10 servings
  • 1pound dried white beans, soaked overnight
  • ¼cup duck fat or extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1pound salt pork or pancetta, cut into large lardons (about ¼ inch by 1 inch)
  • 1quart good-quality chicken or meat stock
  • 6garlic cloves, left whole (no need to peel)
  • 1large bouquet garni of sage, thyme, rosemary and parsley, tied
  • 2large white or yellow onions, chopped
  • 2leeks, trimmed, white and pale green parts thinly sliced
  • 3celery stalks, thinly sliced
  • Sea salt and black pepper
  • 3tablespoons chopped fresh sage
  • 1(14-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes and their juices
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (10 servings)

612 calories; 44 grams fat; 16 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 20 grams monounsaturated fat; 5 grams polyunsaturated fat; 40 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams dietary fiber; 5 grams sugars; 17 grams protein; 1377 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Drain the beans and put them in a medium pot. Cover by about 1 inch of cold water, bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and cook until beans are thoroughly giving (but not mushy). This will take approximately 1 to 2 hours, depending on the freshness of the beans. Once cooked, remove from the heat, but keep them in their liquor so they do not dry out.

  2. Step 2

    Get a large, deep pan hot and add the duck fat (or oil). Add the lardons and cook over low heat to render the fat, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes.

  3. Step 3

    In a saucepan, combine stock, garlic cloves and bouquet garni. Heat to a simmer then cook, 30 minutes. Turn off the heat and set aside.

  4. Step 4

    When the lardons are golden, remove with a slotted spoon. To the fat in the pan, add onions, leeks and celery, season with salt and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the sage and the entire tin of tomatoes and their juices, crushing the tomatoes in your hands as you do so. Let this cook down for 15 minutes to thicken the tomatoes, stirring to remove all the good lardon bits that might adhere to the pan. Stir in 1 cup of the simmered stock. Season to taste.

  5. Step 5

    Drain the beans and add them to the pan with the tomato mixture. Add the lardons and 1 more cup stock and gently mix everything together. Season very well with salt and pepper. Cover and let cook over low heat for 10 to 20 minutes, adding stock a ladleful at a time if the mixture seems to be drying out. Serve hot.

Ratings

4 out of 5
356 user ratings
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Comments

This dish is a marvel of economy and unfussiness. Do the beans (soaked overnight) in an Instant Pot (the standard "beans" setting: 1/2 hr + natural release) using the 1 quart/950 ml stock instead of water. (Paul Prudhomme: "Water's only for washing!") Rather than bouquet garni (good luck finding fresh herbs in Feb), I use them dried (1/2 tsp each thyme, sage, parsley & rosemary; 2 tsp chopped garlic) much later, at the start of Step 5, to maximize flavor.

For many years I have been following the advice of America's Test Kitchen when soaking beans. Their advice: Brine the beans! Dissolve 3 T salt in 4 Qt. cold water. Soak the beans overnight, 8-24 hours. The result will be that the beans have a very creamy texture that is to die for. I highly recommend this any time you plan to use dried beans in a recipe like this.

no need to "yuck" someone else's "yum".

I made this recently and it was the best bean dish I’ve ever had. I used 2 cans of white beans, dried herbs, and smoked bacon lardons. I halved the time for most steps out of laziness, and it was still amazing!

Made as per the recipe. Delicious! A few notes: - This would be fine with less (expensive) pancetta, perhaps 3/4 lb. If you like it fairly crispy, allow for 45 minutes cooking instead of 20. Also don't need quite as much oil - try 1/8 cup instead of 1/4. - Finished this in the pot the beans cooked in, not the skillet the veggies cooked in; would not have been large enough. - Important! Cook the celery for a few minutes before adding the other veggies, otherwise, it will be too crunchy.

When you’re in a “pot of Beans” mood, this recipe is an easy step above the ordinary and devious beyond the ordinary.

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Credits

Adapted from “The Book of St. John” by Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver (Ebury Press, 2020)

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