Abgoosht (Persian Lamb and Chickpea Stew)

- Total Time
- 3½ hours, plus overnight soaking
- Rating
- Comments
- Read comments
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Ingredients
- 2½pounds bone-in lamb shank
- 1teaspoon ground turmeric
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- ½cup dried chickpeas
- ½cup dried white beans, such as navy or cannellini
- 2large yellow onions, quartered
- ¼cup tomato paste
- 3large russet potatoes (about 2 pounds)
- 6Omani (dried Persian) limes, rinsed and punctured multiple times with a fork
- Persian liteh pickles, for serving
- Salad-e Shirazi, for serving
- Warmed sangak bread or other freshly baked flatbreads, for serving
- Assorted fresh herbs (such as mint, tarragon and basil), scallions and radishes, for serving (optional)
- Doogh (Persian yogurt drink), for serving (optional)
Preparation
- Step 1
The night before you plan to cook, season the lamb with turmeric, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cover and refrigerate. Place chickpeas and beans in a medium bowl; add 3 cups water and a generous pinch of salt. Refrigerate overnight.
- Step 2
To cook: Set a large Dutch oven or soup pot over high heat. Add lamb, onions, tomato paste and 8 cups water. Drain chickpeas and beans and add to pot. Bring to a boil, stir to dissolve tomato paste, and cover pot partially with a lid. Reduce heat and simmer stew for 2 hours.
- Step 3
Peel potatoes and cut into 1-inch pieces. Add potatoes and Omani limes to pot and continue simmering until potatoes and meat are both completely tender, about 1 hour. Taste and adjust the seasoning of the broth with salt and pepper.
- Step 4
Remove limes from pot, and one by one, juice them into the soup through a sieve by pressing down on them with a spoon. (Avoid letting the seeds through the sieve, as they can be bitter.) Taste the broth after juicing each lime and add just enough so that the broth is tangy and bright.
- Step 5
Use the sieve to remove the meat, potatoes and beans from the pot and transfer them to a large bowl. Use a fork to pull the meat off the bones. If any of the bones have marrow, use a skewer to remove it and add to the bowl. Use a potato masher to mash meat, beans and potatoes into a soft, uniform paste — this is called goosht kubideh, literally “mashed meat.” If the mixture appears dry, add a few spoonfuls of broth and continue to mash until unctuous and smooth. Taste the paste and adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper and Omani lime juice, as needed.
- Step 6
To serve, bring broth and goosht kubideh to the table, along with bowls of liteh pickles, salad-e Shirazi, warmed sangak bread, fresh herbs and, if you like, doogh. All of the sides serve as palate cleansers to balance the richness of the dish.
- Step 7
Traditionally, the broth is eaten first with sangak bread, which can hold up to the broth without disintegrating. Typically, the bread is torn into bite-size pieces and added to broth to soak for a couple of minutes before digging in. This process is called tilit.
- Step 8
Serve the goosht kubideh separately after everyone has had a bowl of broth. Traditionally the meat paste is made into small sandwiches with fresh herbs, and eaten with alternate bites of salad-e Shirazi and liteh pickle. Leftover goosht kubideh makes for a great sandwich or baby food, and freezes well for up to 2 weeks.
Private Notes
Comments
4 years ago I took in a young man, a refugee from Tehran. Last evening I made this wonderful dinner and he nearly cried, assuring me that it was entirely authentic and the best meal I have prepared for him in these four years. He couldn’t (and didn’t) wait to call his family and let them know how much he misses them and his home! Thanks much. It was well worth the effort!
This works really beautifully in a slow cooker as well! The fun bonus is that you get even more lovely broth at the end. My sisters light up whenever they smell it cooking when they get home! We eat it with lots of pickles and flatbread.
Not to counter Samin’s excellent recipe, but I take an express approach and put all the ingredients (except potatoes) in the pot, with no prior preparation, and cook for 2.5-3 hrs -simmering on low heat after bringing the water to a boil. Add the potatoes (and water if the broth level is low) in the last 45 min and it works great. That’s because both the meat and beans take 2 hrs to cook and be tender. Lamb neck also works great for Abgoosht. I personally like the flatbread (whole wheat lavash, pita, or sangak) toasted before soaking it in the broth.
This was divine. I used the suggestion for preserved lemons instead of Omani limes, and the recipe turned out beautifully. The lamb was cooked to absolute perfection, and the little accoutrements of the herbs and radishes was so yummo. Can’t make it again soon because wow was that a lot of work, but boy will I be enjoying the leftovers…
I made this exactly according to the recipe and it was delicious. I also made some quick pickled red onions to go with it and made sandwiches with herbs, radishes, and pitas.
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