Amatriciana on the Fly

Amatriciana on the Fly
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.
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4(921)
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This is a no-recipe recipe, a recipe without an ingredients list or steps. It invites you to improvise in the kitchen.

Here’s a half-hour challenge that’s no challenge at all. Set a large pot of salted water on the stove, over high heat. In a pan, sauté chopped bacon — slab bacon, if you can get it — in a glug or two of olive oil until it’s crisp. Remove the bacon and add chopped onion to the fat, cooking until it’s soft and fragrant. Figure the equivalent of a slice of bacon and half an onion per person.

Meanwhile, boil water for enough pasta to feed your crowd, and cook it until it is just shy of tender. While it cooks, add some canned chopped tomatoes and the cooked bacon to the onions, and stir it to make a sauce. Drain the pasta, then toss it with a knob of butter, and add the pasta to the sauce. Slide all that into a warm serving bowl, then top with grated pecorino. A scattering of chopped parsley is never going to be a bad idea here, but you can omit it if the clock’s ticking. Serve with red-pepper flakes and extra cheese on the side.

Sam Sifton features a no-recipe recipe every Wednesday in his What to Cook newsletter. Sign up to receive it. You can find more no-recipe recipes here.

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Comments

For God's sake - to each his own! Cook your pasta the way YOU like it. I prefer my pasta a bit soft. That way there is a thicker starch coating on it that helps thinner sauces adhere. Pasta - left unflavored in the making - has little to no flavor of its own. After all it's just boiled flour and egg with maybe a bit of oil.

This is very close to the way I've always made this. Pancetta is preferable, guanciale fantastic as well. Bacon adds a smoky note that is interesting. I prefer to add the crushed red pepper while the pork is rendering. It delights in that fat. Simple sauce that brings great flavor.

Better to move the pasta to the sauce a bit short of al dente, add a bit of pasta water, turn heat to medium and toss like a salad over the heat. 20 times the Italians say, at least in my village.

I love this dish and how the sum is so much greater than I expect. I always have bacon and parm in the house, but substitute with whatever fresh or canned tomato product I have on hand. I really appreciate the no recipe recipe style and, you Sam Sifton, for publishing this.

I had bacon, I had summer tomatoes in the freezer, I had cheese and pasta. When Sam Sifton tells me to make something with what I have, I do it. Sam has never let me down and this was perfect for a rainy December night.

I recommend adding the red pepper flakes to the onions while they’re sautéing. Brings out more of the flavor into unions and oil

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