French Onion Panade

French Onion Panade
Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Amy Wilson.
Total Time
2 hours
Rating
4(788)
Comments
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Panade is the French country cook's answer to stuffing — a satisfying and efficient way to use up stale bread. Because there are so few components, taking care to ensure that each one is just right will make all the difference in how the final dish tastes. Start with a stale, crusty loaf of sourdough bread. Cook the onions slowly, until they're a deep caramel color, and then season them properly with vinegar and wine. Buy good Gruyère and Parmesan, and grate it yourself. And finally, use either homemade chicken stock, or buy some from a butcher. The result will be triumph of upcycling: basically French onion soup without the soup — just bite after bite of cheesy, onion-and-stock-soaked bread. Serve it as a main course, with a light green salad and a dry white wine or an ice-cold beer.

Featured in: I Buy Fancy Bread Just to Let It Grow Stale. Here’s Why.

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Ingredients

Yield:8 to 12 servings
  • 1large, stale loaf crusty sourdough bread (about 1¼ pounds), cut into ⅓-inch slices
  • 8tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, divided
  • 2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 4pounds (about 5 large) yellow onions, thinly sliced
  • Fine sea salt
  • 2tablespoons white-wine vinegar
  • ¼cup white wine or dry vermouth
  • 5 to 6cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
  • 12ounces Gruyère cheese, grated (about 3 cups)
  • 3ounces Parmesan, finely grated (about 1⅓ cups)
  • Freshly ground black pepper
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (10 servings)

630 calories; 33 grams fat; 17 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 11 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 53 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams dietary fiber; 13 grams sugars; 31 grams protein; 1056 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oven to 325.

  2. Step 2

    Divide bread slices among 2 or 3 baking sheets. Spread bread out in a single layer, and toast for 20 minutes, then flip slices, and rotate pans to ensure even toasting. Toast until dried out and lightly golden, about 35 minutes total. Set aside. Increase oven temperature to 425, and adjust oven rack to center position.

  3. Step 3

    Set a large Dutch oven or similar pot over medium heat. Add 4 tablespoons butter and olive oil. When butter has melted, add onions and 1½ teaspoons salt. Cook covered for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon.

  4. Step 4

    Once the onions cook down a bit and release some liquid, remove lid and increase heat to medium high. Continue cooking and stirring regularly until onions are tender and dark golden brown, about 45 minutes total. Turn off heat, add vinegar and wine and stir to deglaze. Taste, and adjust salt and vinegar as needed — the onions should be sweet, savory and pleasantly tangy. Spoon onions into a heatproof bowl, and set aside.

  5. Step 5

    Return pot to stove. Add stock and 1 teaspoon salt, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Taste, and adjust salt as needed — it should taste like good chicken soup.

  6. Step 6

    Place both cheeses in a medium bowl, and mix to combine.

  7. Step 7

    Butter the inside of a deep 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Line the bottom with a layer of toasted bread, breaking up pieces as needed to form a solid layer. Spoon half the onion mixture evenly over the bread. Sprinkle with ⅓ of the cheese mixture, and season with pepper. Continue layering with bread, the remainder of the onions and another ⅓ of the cheese. Top off with a final layer of bread.

  8. Step 8

    Ladle 3 cups of stock over the panade, then wait a minute, and allow the bread to absorb liquid. Pressing down on panade with a metal spatula, add as much stock as the panade will absorb without overflowing. Dot the top layer of bread with remaining butter, then cover with parchment paper and foil. Place baking dish atop baking sheet to catch any overflow, then slide onto the center rack. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove foil and parchment, sprinkle with remaining cheese and return to oven for 15 minutes more. Bake until golden brown.

  9. Step 9

    Remove panade from oven, and allow it to cool for 10 minutes before serving. Cover, and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 2 months. Reheat to serve.

Tip
  • Use homemade chicken stock if possible, or buy it from a good butcher. This dish is about the marriage of bread and stock, so the better these are, the better the panade will be. And don’t be afraid to really submerge the bread in the stock before baking.

Ratings

4 out of 5
788 user ratings
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Comments

I suggest to begin cooking the onions as Step 1, then make the toast. Grate the cheese and butter the pan while the onions and bread cook. The recipe steps make this dish seem complicated, but it's not. Perhaps the NYT food editors should reconsider the standard recipe outline used here and by most cookbooks and websites, and come up with a better format to reflect the way people actually cook at home.

This looks delightful and delicious and something I'd like to attempt. However I have to question the instructions. Like most recipes that call for baking or roasting, we're instructed to preheat the oven first, no matter how long it takes to arrive at the moment the dish is placed in the oven. In this instance it appears to be over an hour from the time we're told to heat the oven. Of course most of us know to ignore or read through this step, but still...

This recipe is incredible. But I think it absolutely shines when twice baked. Either bake the day before or earlier the day of. Baking twice creates a drier, crispier panade with more concentrated flavors. Sometimes I’ll add fresh thyme to each layer or substitute beef stock which works as well.

Wonderful base recipe for those of us who adore bread soup. Next time I’ll add mushrooms, kale and possibly some tomato paste to the onions near the end of their cook time. Seasoned rice wine works well instead of vinegar. Oh, and use lots more onions. 8x8 covered enamel casserole works great for 1/2 recipe, but definitely needs to be on a tray to catch drips. Folded square of parchment fitted to the lid really helped keep it from sticking.

2 T each of Worcestershire sauce and balsamic vinegar added to onions before cooking is a great idea. Next time I would also toss a few parm rinds into the broth.

This is a very sturdy base recipe that can tolerate lots of tweaks. I had some “buttermilk” (whey) left over from making ricotta cheese, so I used 2 cups of that along with 4 cups chicken bullion. Threw in some TVP, sautéed mushrooms and kale. Needed to use a larger roasting pan. Still turned out great.

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