Turkish Flour Helva  

Turkish Flour Helva  
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Total Time
1½ to 2½ hours
Rating
5(37)
Comments
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Flour helva, a thick, sweet pudding that tastes of warm, toasted flour and browned butter, is both a ceremonial and everyday dish in Turkey. It’s essential at gatherings such as funerals and births, but is also often made as a staple family dessert. This version, from the Istanbul food writer Cemre Narin, was given to her by her mother-in-law, Ozden. It is much beloved for its deep brown butter and cinnamon flavor, as well as its comforting, smooth texture, with the contrasting crunchy almonds on top. It makes a filling warming dessert or snack that's especially lovely in winter.

The key here is patience. The dish takes a long time to come together, and while you don’t have to stir it constantly, you won’t be able to go far from the pot while it cooks. Make this when you're in the kitchen anyway, tending to other pans or projects. Be sure to get the flour deeply golden brown so it takes on a rich, nutty flavor, otherwise your helva may be bland. Pine nuts are often used here in place of the almonds. Feel free to use either one. —Melissa Clark

Featured in: Turkish Sweets Are the Essence of a Nation

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Ingredients

Yield:8 small servings
  • 1stick/½ cup/113 grams unsalted butter
  • 1cup/125 grams all-purpose flour
  • 1cup/200 grams sugar
  • cups/350 milliliters whole milk
  • Pinch of salt (optional)
  • 2cups whole blanched almonds
  • 2teaspoons cinnamon
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

498 calories; 32 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 16 grams monounsaturated fat; 5 grams polyunsaturated fat; 46 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 29 grams sugars; 11 grams protein; 47 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a medium pot over medium heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour, a little at a time to prevent clumping; reduce heat to very low and cook, stirring often with a heatproof rubber spatula or wooden spoon, until the flour is deep golden brown and butter separates and floats to the top, about 1 to 2 hours. The higher the flame, the quicker it will cook, but the more you will have to stir it.

  2. Step 2

    Meanwhile, in a medium pot, combine sugar, 1½ cups/355 milliliters water, and milk; bring to a low simmer over medium heat. Turn off heat, cover to keep warm, and reserve.

  3. Step 3

    When flour mixture is toasted and browned but not burned, slowly whisk in the warm milk mixture and a pinch of salt if you like. (It's O.K. if the milk has cooled to room temperature; it should not be cold.) Raise heat to medium-high and cook, stirring with a heatproof rubber spatula or wooden spoon, until mixture comes together in a paste-like texture and no longer sticks to sides of the pot. (Make sure to stir in the corners and bottom of pot.) Whisk the mixture occasionally, if necessary, to create a smoother texture and get rid of any lumps. Cover pot with a cloth and a lid, then let cool.

  4. Step 4

    In a medium skillet, toast the almonds in the dry pan over medium heat. Sprinkle almonds and cinnamon over cooled helva. Spoon onto plates or into small bowls to serve.

Ratings

5 out of 5
37 user ratings
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Comments

I don't understand the convention of not including water in the list of ingredients. It would be easily overlooked when it it just included in the instructions.

Interesting. I am definitely giving this a try. Trinidadians make it with rice flour and it has a great flavor with cardamom. Halva is wonderful.

You can substitute semolina (coarse or fine) for the all purpose flour. You can also add saffron strands to the warm milk before adding to the flour mix, it brings a divine earthiness to the halva. Raisins add texture to the halva, as do roasted cashew bits, especially if both are browned in ghee before adding to the halva.

This is typically served at funerals. After the burial, people gather at the deceased's home. There's food, and lots of people, and amidst all of that the helva is cooked. The kitchen, and the helva, are almost a refuge from small talk, the people, and the grief. The helva needs to be stirred often and for long, perfect for when there are many people around. So people come to the kitchen, stir a bit, exchange memories of the deceased and return to the reception.

Most do not use water to make this. Generally turkish people use semolina flour, known as irmik, to make this instead of flour.

Oh lord, this tastes so good.

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Credits

Adapted from Ozden Narin

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