Chilled Shrimp With Lobster Butter

This is my cover-band take on a dish served one spring at the restaurant Joe Beef in Montreal, which paired an enormous quantity of chilled steamed Canadian shrimp, bright and sweet, with a tureen of lobster butter. It was a dark and clouded sauce, slightly yellow, slightly green. We dipped and ate – sweet shrimp meat against deep salinity and velvet sauciness – and it was like hearing a hit song for the very first time, addictive from the start. We dipped everything in lobster butter that night. We’re still at it now.