Cheese Pupusas

Updated Sept. 30, 2020

Cheese Pupusas
Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Kate S. Jordan.
Total Time
40 minutes
Rating
4(475)
Comments
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Cheese pupusas — stuffed, griddled masa cakes — and their accompanying slaw, curtido, are quintessential Salvadoran street foods. This recipe is adapted from Janet Lainez, who has been making them for homesick Latinos every summer at the Red Hook Ball Fields for nearly 25 years. She likes to use mozzarella rather than Salvadoran cheese — preferably Polly-O, established in Brooklyn, 1899. —Francis Lam

Featured in: The Corn Cakes of Red Hook

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Ingredients

Yield:9 pupusas (3 to 4 servings)
  • 1teaspoon kosher salt
  • 2cups masa harina (9 ounces by weight)
  • cups water
  • 12ounces industrial mozzarella, grated (preferably Polly-O whole milk)
  • Vegetable oil, as needed
  • Curtido, for serving (see recipe)
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

489 calories; 24 grams fat; 12 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 8 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 46 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 24 grams protein; 544 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a large bowl, mix the salt well into the masa harina. With your hands, knead the water into the masa harina in a few additions; work in all the water evenly. The dough will feel like stiff mashed potatoes. Lay a 12-inch square of plastic wrap or a zip-lock on a smooth work surface.

  2. Step 2

    Divide the cheese into 9 equal piles. Roll a 2-ounce ball of dough in your hands, about the size of a golf ball, and pat it out in your hand to form a disc a little larger than your palm. (If the dough is very sticky, lightly moisten or oil your hands.) Pat a pile of cheese onto the masa, leaving just a little space around the edges (cup your hand slightly if it helps). Carefully close your hand to bring the edges of the disc closer, and use your other hand to pat and pinch it together to enclose the cheese in a rough ball. Patch any holes with a little more masa, but don’t worry too much — cheese that leaks out will brown deliciously in the pan. Moisten or oil the plastic wrap, and pat out the pupusa on it, forming a disc about 4 inches wide. Repeat, forming a second pupusa.

  3. Step 3

    Heat a large nonstick sauté pan over medium heat, and very lightly grease it with oil. When the oil appears thin, lay the pupusas in the pan, and cook until richly browned in spots, about 4 minutes. (If you can fit 3 or 4 pupusas at a time in the pan, increase heat to medium-high.) It’s O.K. if the cheese starts to bubble out. Flip the pupusas, and cook another 4 minutes, until they’re browned and cooked through. Serve finished ones immediately with curtido, and repeat forming and cooking the remaining pupusas.

Ratings

4 out of 5
475 user ratings
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Comments

As pupusas are Salvadoran, use a mixture of Salvadoran white cheese and a high quality mozzarella.

Curtido and the red sauce are essential.

Curtido is simple to make (1/2 a cabbage + lg carrot slivered and blanched, add a sliced jalapeño + salt/pepper/oregano, pickle in 1/2 vinegar: water; white plus splash of ACV is nice).

My Salvadoran MIL's trick for quick red sauce is chicken broth/vinegary hot sauce/tomato paste. Adjust ratio to your liking in a saucepan and there you have it.

Dough is similar consistency to homemade tortillas, so used the tortilla press. Filled pupusas don't press as evenly as plain masa, and would have benefited from a 180-degree turn and second gentle press.

As always, squares of parchment paper are so much better than plastic wrap or waxed paper for anything masa-based.

I love pupusas & make them all the time for breakfast. Any melty, stretchy, mild cheese is good (even Swiss can taste amazing, believe it or not) but for contrast it’s essential to make a really flavorful curtido. I make a jacked-up, multi-culti version that mixes sauerkraut, shredded green cabbage, cilantro, vinegar, thyme, olive oil, and a small dollop of sambal sauce. Yeah it’s good.

For anyone trying to substitute cheeses or maybe get away with less cheese, I'd say no. I used to eat these from a gas station truck in the 90's as a teen, and I loved them. I only used about 7oz a wet goat cheese with Parmesan (the usual cheese is slightly salty) because it's all I had. The pupusa was too dry.

I’ve made these many times as 4 mins per side doesn’t ever cook them. I need about twice that to cook through.

Question - does masa harina in this recipe mean a ground corn product like Maseca? Masa is the prepared dough, and I think that mixing water into it would produce a soupy mess.

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Credits

Janet Lainez

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