Salt-Packed Cold Roast Beef With Bread-Crumb Salsa

Salt-Packed Cold Roast Beef With Bread-Crumb Salsa
Danny Ghitis for The New York Times
Total Time
1 hour 30 minutes
Rating
5(43)
Comments
Read comments

When you cook a large piece of meat or a whole fish in a thick crust of salt, the crust provides both gentle heat and even seasoning. For beef tenderloin, a relatively bland cut, salt-baking is easy and ensures a particularly tasty dish. Serving the perfectly plain, perfectly cooked beef alongside a riotous crunchy salad of fried croutons, tomatoes, lemon segments and scallions makes for a lively main course.

This recipe – reproduced verbatim from "Prune," the first cookbook by the New York chef Gabrielle Hamilton – isn't like other recipes. (This makes sense, because Ms. Hamilton isn't like other chefs – self-taught, with a quirky menu that reflects her American childhood, French parentage and global palate.) It reflects the book, which is written more like a kitchen manual for Prune's sous chefs than a cookbook for a home kitchen. The recipe may seem long, but with her helpful detail and entertaining language, cooking becomes a pleasure. —Julia Moskin

Featured in: A Cookbook That Veers From the Usual Recipe

  • or to save this recipe.

  • Subscriber benefit: give recipes to anyone
    As a subscriber, you have 10 gift recipes to give each month. Anyone can view them - even nonsubscribers. Learn more.
    Subscribe
  • Print Options


Advertisement


Ingredients

Yield:6 servings

    For the Beef

    • 24ounces trimmed and clean beef tenderloin
    • 1tablespoon grapeseed oil
    • 2teaspoons finely and freshly ground black pepper
    • 2 to 3pounds kosher salt (Diamond Crystal only)
    • cups cold water

    For the Bread-crumb Salsa

    • 1cup extra-virgin olive oil
    • 6ounces day-old peasant bread, torn into free-form smallish croutons
    • 1pound assorted sweet cherry tomatoes, split in half
    • 1bunch scallions, sliced thinly in rings, from the white all the way up through as much of the green stalk as is edible
    • 4small cloves fresh and sticky new garlic, thinly sliced
    • 1packed tablespoon plus 1 packed teaspoon salt-packed anchovies, rinsed, filleted and then minced
    • 2lemons, zested, supremed and deseeded, and all the juice from what’s left of the skeleton after supreming the segments
    • 2tablespoons red wine vinegar
    • ½cup clean and dry flat-leaf Italian parsley leaves
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

773 calories; 61 grams fat; 14 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 36 grams monounsaturated fat; 7 grams polyunsaturated fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 3 grams sugars; 28 grams protein; 876 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

Powered by
Cooking Newsletter illustration

Opt out or contact us anytime. See our Privacy Policy.

Opt out or contact us anytime. See our Privacy Policy.

Preparation

  1. For the Beef

    1. Step 1

      Heat a large, heavy cast-iron skillet over medium heat for 5 whole minutes and make sure the hood is on. Rub the fillet with 1 tablespoon oil, then sprinkle and coat evenly with black pepper. Brown the meat thoroughly on every side and the cut ends so that you have formed a nice crust universally around the fillet, creating a barrier for the coming salt crust. (This takes 7 to 8 minutes to brown correctly.) Remove the meat from the pan and let cool on a wire rack set in a sheet pan to have a cool and mostly dry piece of meat.

    2. Step 2

      Mix the salt with the water to form what looks like bright white wet sand. Spread a thin but solid and even layer of salt on the bottom of a ¼ sheet pan and set the roast on it, then pack the remaining moist salt tidily around the browned meat, forming a solid case resembling a cast on a broken leg. Where there are cracks, redistribute the salt and fix them. This should be a fun and unfussy task. If you need more salt or more water or less water and more salt, mix up whatever mortar you need to get the beef encased.

    3. Step 3

      Place the salt-crusted beef on its sheet pan into a 250-degree oven and let it cook for 45 minutes. If you weighed it properly at the outset, 45 minutes at 250 degrees is fail-safe. Otherwise, use an insta-read thermometer and go in through a cut end to the direct center, and pull it when it hits 125 degrees inside. Crack the salt crust, dust the granules of clinging salt off with a clean, dry side towel, and set to rest on a tray in your station. Don’t refrigerate, but label properly the time and date for Health Department.

  2. For the Bread-crumb Salsa

    1. Step 4

      In a small, deep-sided sauté pan, heat the 1 cup of olive oil over medium-high heat. The oil should be just deep enough to submerge the first tip of your index finger. Good olive oil is rarely recommended for frying, so don’t ever do this when you go on to work in a real restaurant, but here at Prune, I really prefer the flavor it adds.

    2. Step 5

      When the oil makes its beautiful, veinous, streaking patterns in the pan, which will move faster as the oil gets hotter, drop in a test piece of crouton. When it sizzles on contact, the oil is ready. Fry the croutons until golden brown, remove with a slotted spoon, and drain in a stack of basket-style coffee filters. Set aside the frying oil to cool. Mix together the tomatoes, scallions, garlic, anchovies, lemon flesh and zest and juice, and the red wine vinegar and toss well.

    3. Step 6

      Toss in the fried bread croutons and dress with ⅓ cup of the now-cool olive oil left over from frying. Rough up the parsley leaves briefly in your hands just to release the grassy aroma and add to the salsa. Sparingly season with salt and pepper to taste, keeping in mind that the filet will bring its own seasoning to the plate.

  3. To Plate

    1. Step 7

      Slice the beef to order, keep portion at 6 ounces. Shingle meat. Drape a good big spoonful of salsa over meat, but let the perfect wall-to-wall pink of the fillet show — don’t hide that beauty under carelessly placed salsa. Drizzle with some of the remaining fry oil to finish. Do not season further.

Ratings

5 out of 5
43 user ratings
Your rating

or to rate this recipe.

Have you cooked this?

or to mark this recipe as cooked.

Private Notes

Leave a Private Comment on this recipe and see it here.

Comments

I can only assume that the reason no one seems to have made this is that it requires an expensive cut of beef. However, it is WELL WORTH the investment. The recipe is fun to make (encasing meat in wet salt!), cam out perfectly rare/med rare (my loin was bigger than called for), and the peppy salsa and bread salad complemented the beef perfectly. And there are leftovers for steak sandwiches! Overall, it is not fussy but comes out looking like you slaved away for hours.

I loved these recipes! The Tenderloin was yummy. The Salsa worked with it, beautifully. A few things: I seared the beef on my gas grill; no mess in the kitchen. Worked like a charm! (Took about 14 minutes, but I had a 3 ½ lb tenderloin for 8 people.) I used twine to tie it up. I roasted the beef for 50 minutes (in a convection oven.) Came out pink and perfect. The croutons took too much time to fry. Next time I'll oven-roast them w/olive oil. Less hassle and calories. Excellent recipes.

I couldn’t bear to spend $150 on the cut for a Christmas party, so I tried it with a shoulder. It was unbelievably good. Method is a winner!

Made with coarse sea salt. The salad and beef were both amazing!

Can this be done with coarse sea salt instead? Very hard to get kosher salt where I live.

Private comments are only visible to you.

Credits

Adapted from “Prune” (Random House) by Gabrielle Hamilton

Advertisement

or to save this recipe.